Probably one of the more extravagant pours for a retail tasting, but certainly worth the crowd. This tasting at the Spirited Gourmet featured Perrier-Jouet's 1999 Fleur de Champagne and also their 2002 Rosé, followed by 2005 Patz & Hall Durell Vineyard Chardonnay from Sonoma.
1999 Perrier-Jouët Fleur de Champagne, Epernay
Founded in 1811 by Nicolas-Marie Perrier and his wife Adele Jouët, this was beloved by English royalty. 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir, 5% Pinot Meunier sourced from grand cru vineyards in the Cote de Blancs and the Montagne de Reims.
2002 Perrier-Jouët Fleur de Champagne Rosé
55% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay from grand cru vineyards make this dazzling salmon-pink sparkler that calls for a celebration. First released in the U.S. in 1976.
2005 Patz & Hall Durell Vineyard Chardonnay
Two friends, one a winemaker formed Patz & Hall in Sonoma. Two clones here--Dijon (aromatics) and Wente (weight)--yield a ripe, opulent wine with a nice touch of acidity.
2005 Gaja Sito Moresco (Langhe)
Gaja was first to implement the use of varietals other than nebbiolo in single vineyard bottlings around Barbaresco. Estate grown vineyards, equal parts Nebbiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Super silky and glistening with plummy and black cherry fruit and only touches of oak. Gains momentum and building on the palate, it literally explodes with red berry fruit on the finish.
2004 Terlato Episode Red (Rutherford)
CA Bordeaux blends are "plumper and showcasing different flavors and textures due to terroirs of the regions". Rutherford is very unique and known for "Rutherford Dust" and it's cocoa-like flavor and texture.
2003 Rubicon Estate Cask Cabernet Sauvignon
Organically-certified vineyards adjacent to vines that produce Rubicon, which is built for the long-haul, offering gobs of dark fruit, Cask is more approachable in the near term and showcases red fruits. Ripe plum, bing cherry, dark chocolate coate the palate along with a touch of neutral oak providing a nice framework.
2004 Beaulieu Vineyards Georges de Latour Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley icon. Georges de Latour founded the winery over 100 years ago. Flagship wine, estate grown. Inky purple, inviting nose of toasty oak and super-ripe red and black fruits. Rich, intense, and textured mouth feel.
2005 Franciscan Stylus Red (Napa Valley)
Franciscan also makes Magnificant, a juicy Bordeaux blend from Oakville and Cuvee Sauvage, a Chardonnay made with wild, uncultured yeasts. This is the first vintage of Stylus. Full-bodied, ripe and generous, displaying great dark cherry, tobacco, and cocoa notes.
Thursday, December 24, 2009
Holiday hiatus.
The holidays are upon us and as you may have noticed, I haven't been blogging much. This is not to say that I haven't been tasting some lovely wines or expanding my knowledge to someday share with you, dear reader.
No, my day job has been taking up a great portion of my time, combined with extended time at the restaurant amongst other obligations, has left little extra time to blog. So, I'm making it official: I'm announcing a temporary hiatus, but not before tossing in this link on the Dry Creek Valley and a short rebuttal to a friend--with great taste in shoes--about why anyone would ever want to use Twitter, which is where the hat tip goes out to (HT: WineTwit).
Karen MacNeil's The Wine Bible identifies Dry Creek Valley as home to the Ridge's Lytton Springs Zinfandel, one of my favorites alongside their Geyserville bottling (Anderson Valley) and York Creek (Spring Mountain). Although, I must say I'm also quite the fan of Grgich Hills, but that's not from the Dry Creek Valley. Everyday, more affordable Dry Creek Zinfandels come from Mauritson, Four Vines' The Sophisticate, and Alderbrook owned by Terlato, owners of Episode, the yummy meritage showing the classic cocoa flavors people associate with the "Rutherford Dust"; and Chimney Rock in the Stags Leap District). All of these wines have a nice fruity, jammy flavor profile--some are fruit bombs, loaded with alcohol--perfect for those soon-to-arrive summer nights around a fully loaded grill with a cool breeze blowing through your hair. For the winter: think, warm fire, steaks, and great company, followed by some chocolate.
Speaking of food, here's a recipe from Alderbrook, found in the linked article:
No, my day job has been taking up a great portion of my time, combined with extended time at the restaurant amongst other obligations, has left little extra time to blog. So, I'm making it official: I'm announcing a temporary hiatus, but not before tossing in this link on the Dry Creek Valley and a short rebuttal to a friend--with great taste in shoes--about why anyone would ever want to use Twitter, which is where the hat tip goes out to (HT: WineTwit).
Karen MacNeil's The Wine Bible identifies Dry Creek Valley as home to the Ridge's Lytton Springs Zinfandel, one of my favorites alongside their Geyserville bottling (Anderson Valley) and York Creek (Spring Mountain). Although, I must say I'm also quite the fan of Grgich Hills, but that's not from the Dry Creek Valley. Everyday, more affordable Dry Creek Zinfandels come from Mauritson, Four Vines' The Sophisticate, and Alderbrook owned by Terlato, owners of Episode, the yummy meritage showing the classic cocoa flavors people associate with the "Rutherford Dust"; and Chimney Rock in the Stags Leap District). All of these wines have a nice fruity, jammy flavor profile--some are fruit bombs, loaded with alcohol--perfect for those soon-to-arrive summer nights around a fully loaded grill with a cool breeze blowing through your hair. For the winter: think, warm fire, steaks, and great company, followed by some chocolate.
Speaking of food, here's a recipe from Alderbrook, found in the linked article:
BRAISED POT ROAST RAGOUT WITH POLENTA (serves 8)
6 pounds chuck roast
5 carrots, diced
5 parsnips, diced
2 small yellow onions, small diced
6 stalks celery, small diced
8 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons picked thyme
1 pound button mushrooms
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 pounds hickory smoked bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
3 cups zinfandel
10 cups veal stock (beef will do if necessary)
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 bay leafs
1/3 cup slurry (potato or corn starch and water mixture, mix into a thin paste)
Cut chuck roast into 1-inch pieces. Brown all pieces in a large stockpot with olive oil. Deglaze pan with zinfandel and reduce by half, set aside. In the same pan sauté the vegetables -- onions, carrots, celery, parsnips, and garlic for about five minutes, add thyme, and then set aside. In a separate pan render the bacon. After cooking, strain the bacon fat. Use a small amount of fat to sauté the button mushrooms and add to the vegetable mixture. In the large stock pot add the tomato paste and veal stock and bring to a boil for five minutes, then add the beef and wine mixture. Cover with lid and simmer for one hour. Then add vegetables, bay leaves, bacon and mushroom mix. Slowly simmer covered for 45 minutes or until meat is falling apart. Add slurry to thicken the stew and simmer for about five minutes.
For the polenta:
4 cups chicken stock
4 cups whole milk
2 cups corn meal
½ cup butter
1 cup parmesan cheese
Bring chicken stock and milk to a simmer. Add corn meal slowly and stir every five minutes to prevent from sticking. Continue to stir until mixture has thickened to a smooth consistency. Add butter and parmesan cheese.
Serve the ragout over the polenta.
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Words of wisdom
Frank Schoonmaker's Encyclopedia of Wine, 6th New Revised Edition (1976) provides this hilarious entry for the word dull:
A dull wine is like a dull person--perhaps honorable and sound, but not very interesting and certainly not much fun. Such a wine may be dry, full-bodied and have other qualities; it should certainly be cheap.Happy Thanksgiving!
Friday, November 20, 2009
2006 Château de Puligny-Montrachet Monthélie
This delightful Pinot Noir shows an exotic spiciness along with red fruits and earth followed by a nice touch of acidity, smooth tannins and a long finish. Delicious. On Monthélie (map):
Monthélie is the smallest village on the Côte de Beaune, with Volnay to the northeast, Meursault to the south and Auxey-Duresses to the west. The monks from Cluny planted the first vines here around the year 1000, but traces of human settlements go all the way back to Gallo-Roman times and beyond.This would be perfect with the spices often seen at Oleana (BostonChefs.com on Oleana), where Theresa Paopao has assembled a great wine list. My choices for the evening:
The Monthélie premier crus were extended as recently as 2006; going from eleven to 15 in number when Les Clous, Le Clos des Toisières, Le Clou des Chênes and La Barbière were promoted from village status to premier cru. Nine of the premier crus are located east of the village; being an extension of the Volnay premier cru Clos des Chênes. The Monthélie wines are often described as lesser Volnays, but at more reasonable prices. Most of what is produced in Monthélie is red; white wine only accounting for four or five percent.
- NV Sparkling Gruner Veltliner, E. Gruber ‘Punkt Genau,’ Weinviertal, Austria
- 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault (plus another Rhone varietal), Chateau Musar, Bekka Valley, Lebanon (My first Lebanese wine! Have you ever had Lebanese or Israeli wine? Please share in the comments.)
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
Thanksgiving Wine
Affordable wines, as recommended by The Second Glass, for Thanksgiving. If you have time, you might want to check out their Crash Course events.
As for his recommendations, I must say, great choice with the Nino Franco Rustico Prosecco, this easy drinking sparkler consistently receives acclaim from critics. That being said, it's ultimately up to you to decide whether you like a particular wine. Wine critics are guides, not prophets.
As for his recommendations, I must say, great choice with the Nino Franco Rustico Prosecco, this easy drinking sparkler consistently receives acclaim from critics. That being said, it's ultimately up to you to decide whether you like a particular wine. Wine critics are guides, not prophets.
Sunday, November 15, 2009
Thanksgiving Wine
In preparation for the season, Gary Vaynerchuk makes his Thanksgiving wine recommendations. More on that subject later.
2005 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant
This delicious, absolutely hedonistic chenin blanc is truly worthy of having it's own AOC within Savennières. This wine is magnificent (and it's been open for several hours, long before my first glass). I'm buying a case.
Sweet aromas of honey with an essence of quince. Finishes dry with great balance. Lovely sweet notes move into fruit and then finish dry;a monumentally long finish, 2+ min.
Stay tuned for a review of an older vintage of this.
Also tasted that night was 2006 Auxy-Duresses White Burgundy, Deux Montille; and 2001 W. Gisselbrecht Gewurztraminer VT.
Sweet aromas of honey with an essence of quince. Finishes dry with great balance. Lovely sweet notes move into fruit and then finish dry;a monumentally long finish, 2+ min.
Stay tuned for a review of an older vintage of this.
Also tasted that night was 2006 Auxy-Duresses White Burgundy, Deux Montille; and 2001 W. Gisselbrecht Gewurztraminer VT.
Thursday, November 12, 2009
From the Archives: 2001 Rocca delle Macie "Primo Volo"
I tasted the 2001 Rocca dell Macie "Primo Volo" on 1/11/2008 alongside several other wines.
This wine brings together three different powerhouse regions: Tuscany, Piedmont, and the Veneto. Made of equal parts Sangiovese, Barbera, and Merlot, with an additional 10% from the best region for that particular vintage.
In the case of the 2001, an additional 10% Sangiovese was included in the batch, making the final composition 40/30/30 respectively. It's a unique wine because it's the debut vintage and it's not classified; it's table wine. Story has it that the winemakers met on a plane and began talking, and probably drinking, together...by the end of the flight, they'd decided to make a wine together. This is the product of that collaboration. The barbera adds acidity and the merlot provides backbone to the delicate brawn of the sangiovese. 2001 was a great year in Tuscany.
Brilliant ruby colors with aromas of flowers and fruit; on the tongue flavors of cherries, plums, blueberries, and spice with nice acidity and a gracefully lingering finish.
More on the collaboration and process:
Sergio Zingarelli of Rocca delle Macie contributed the Sangiovese, Andrea Faccio of Villa Giada contributed the Barbera and Giordano Emo Capodilista of La Montecchia contributed the Merlot. Each batch was vinified separately at their respect place of origin and aged in French oak for 12 months before blending and bottling.
This wine brings together three different powerhouse regions: Tuscany, Piedmont, and the Veneto. Made of equal parts Sangiovese, Barbera, and Merlot, with an additional 10% from the best region for that particular vintage.
In the case of the 2001, an additional 10% Sangiovese was included in the batch, making the final composition 40/30/30 respectively. It's a unique wine because it's the debut vintage and it's not classified; it's table wine. Story has it that the winemakers met on a plane and began talking, and probably drinking, together...by the end of the flight, they'd decided to make a wine together. This is the product of that collaboration. The barbera adds acidity and the merlot provides backbone to the delicate brawn of the sangiovese. 2001 was a great year in Tuscany.
Brilliant ruby colors with aromas of flowers and fruit; on the tongue flavors of cherries, plums, blueberries, and spice with nice acidity and a gracefully lingering finish.
More on the collaboration and process:
Sergio Zingarelli of Rocca delle Macie contributed the Sangiovese, Andrea Faccio of Villa Giada contributed the Barbera and Giordano Emo Capodilista of La Montecchia contributed the Merlot. Each batch was vinified separately at their respect place of origin and aged in French oak for 12 months before blending and bottling.
On Vodka: Belvedere & Chopin
Found an old slice of paper that's now resting in my recycling bin. It's from a "training session" back in the day over the differences between Belvedere & Chopin Vodkas. Knowing what I know now, or should I say, who I know now, could probably go on for days about the different flavors and types of vodka. In fact, that might be a great idea for a guest blog post. He'll be opening up this place (Woodward Tavern in the Ames Hotel), next Friday. He's what I like to call a Liquid Chef, AKA mixologist. Go see him: English Bill.
Belvedere
Presidential Palace in Poland
Century-old distillery in the small town of Zyrardow, just west of Warsaw
Handcrafted in small batches to ensure superior quality
100% Dankowskie Gold Rye, only successfully grown in Mazovia, Poland
Unusually high percentage of starch, 65% by volume
2.2 pounds of Dankowskie Gold Rye go into every 750 ml bottle
Water used is drawn from their own artisan wells providing great purity
Distilled 4 times
Filtered 3 times
Bottles cleaned, filled, and inspected by hand
Every bottle goes through 33 quality control tests
Chopin
Named after Frederic Chopin, Poland favorite son
Distillery located near the town of Kzresk in the heart of the Podlasie (po-LASH-ee), region of Poland
Podlasie potatoes from small, practicing-organic farms of 250 acres or less that use only natural growing , fertilization, and harvesting methods
Most potatoes contain 12% starch; Podlasie contains 17-25% resulting in a richer, more flavorful vodka
Approximately 40 potatoes go into every 750ml bottle of Chopin, it's gluten and carb free
Water is pulled from 300 ft. deep artisan wells at the foot of the distillery
Distilled 4 times
Filtered 5 times
Belvedere
Presidential Palace in Poland
Century-old distillery in the small town of Zyrardow, just west of Warsaw
Handcrafted in small batches to ensure superior quality
100% Dankowskie Gold Rye, only successfully grown in Mazovia, Poland
Unusually high percentage of starch, 65% by volume
2.2 pounds of Dankowskie Gold Rye go into every 750 ml bottle
Water used is drawn from their own artisan wells providing great purity
Distilled 4 times
Filtered 3 times
Bottles cleaned, filled, and inspected by hand
Every bottle goes through 33 quality control tests
Chopin
Named after Frederic Chopin, Poland favorite son
Distillery located near the town of Kzresk in the heart of the Podlasie (po-LASH-ee), region of Poland
Podlasie potatoes from small, practicing-organic farms of 250 acres or less that use only natural growing , fertilization, and harvesting methods
Most potatoes contain 12% starch; Podlasie contains 17-25% resulting in a richer, more flavorful vodka
Approximately 40 potatoes go into every 750ml bottle of Chopin, it's gluten and carb free
Water is pulled from 300 ft. deep artisan wells at the foot of the distillery
Distilled 4 times
Filtered 5 times
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
On Greek wine
A wonderful friend of mine is a huge fan of Greece, especially Santorini, I really can't blame her and while reading about 2009 Boston Rising Star Theresa Paopao, sommelier at Oleana (yummy), speak on Greek wine, I couldn't help but think of my friend's smiling face. Cheers!
I think it's overlooked and underrated and we often associate Greek wine with Retsina, which is aged with pine resin, a flavor is off putting to a lot of people. I’m really into the whites from Santorini. The soil is all chalk and limestone and it’s notoriously windy, so the grapes are actually trained into little baskets so they don't blow away. It’s visually stunning. The two white grapes, Assyrtiko and Athiri are sometimes blended together are so bright and crisp and I've turned drinkers onto that right away.
Beer
Where:
Lower Depths Tap Room, Kenmore Square, 476 Commonwealth Avenue, CASH ONLY.
What:
Troegs "Dead Reckoning" Porter: superb.
Ayinger Celebrator: yummy; celebrate good times indeed.
Southern Tier Mokah Stout: packs a punch with solid mocha flavor.
Harpoon 100 bbl Glacier Harvest Wet Hop: Marvelously delicious, the 2nd best of the tasting.
Smuttynose "Big A" IPA: smells kind, tastes smooth and sweeps 1st place with a big 9%.
ADDENDUM: After scanning Yelp reviews, I've gotta try those tater tots.
Lower Depths Tap Room, Kenmore Square, 476 Commonwealth Avenue, CASH ONLY.
What:
Troegs "Dead Reckoning" Porter: superb.
Ayinger Celebrator: yummy; celebrate good times indeed.
Southern Tier Mokah Stout: packs a punch with solid mocha flavor.
Harpoon 100 bbl Glacier Harvest Wet Hop: Marvelously delicious, the 2nd best of the tasting.
Smuttynose "Big A" IPA: smells kind, tastes smooth and sweeps 1st place with a big 9%.
ADDENDUM: After scanning Yelp reviews, I've gotta try those tater tots.
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Rare bottle tasting notes.
A wonderful source for tasting notes of rare and great bottles comes from the full auction catalog (large pdf) for an upcoming auction of a consignment from the Aubrey McClendon Collection and held by Spectrum Wine Auctions. Think Lafite, Latour, Le Pin, Mouton, Lafleur, DRC, Margaux, Haut-Brion, Screaming Eagle, Harlan, Petrus, Cheval Blanc, d'Yquem, and Shafer.
On 1959 Château Lafite Rothschild:
ADDENDUM: the pdf file is no longer available from Spectrum Wine.
On 1959 Château Lafite Rothschild:
"The 1959 is unquestionably the greatest Lafite-Rothschild...The super-aromatic bouquet of flowers, black truffles, cedar, lead pencil, and red fruits is followed by one of the most powerful and concentrated Lafites I have tasted..." [Score: 99] Wine Advocate # 95, Oct 1994On 1982 Château Lafite Rothschild:
"...with a deep ruby/plum color revealing only a touch of lightening at the edge, the wine offers up an extraordinary nose of caramelized herbs, smoke, cedar, pen ink, black currants, and earth..." [Score: 97+] Wine Advocate # 183, Jun 2009On 1945 Château Latour:
“This is a great - perhaps one of the greatest vintages. Spicy nose, eucalyptus, still full-bodied in the mouth with fruit and richness. Long finish and wonderful aftertaste.” Chateau Latour cellar notesOn 1961 Château Latour:
"...liquid perfection, exhibiting fragrant, cedary, truffle, leather, mineral, and sweet, jammy aromatics, full-bodied, voluptuous textures, exquisite purity and concentration... the essence of compellingly great wine." [Score: 100] Wine Advocate # 129, Jun 2000On 1995 Château Latour:
"...dense purple-colored 1995 exhibits jammy cassis, vanillin, and minerals in its fragrant but still youthful aromatics... with exceptional purity, superb concentration, and a long, intense, ripe, 40-second finish, this is a magnificent example of Latour." [Score: 96] Wine Advocate # 129, Jun 2000On Château Margaux:
Château Margaux has in its possession some of the1959 Château Margaux:
earliest known documents from Bordeaux describing in great detail the study of terroir and its implication in making great wine. Under the Mentzelopoulos family ownership, this modern era of Château Margaux honors the great traditions of its past while continuing to make modern Bordeaux with the same classic refined finesse and elegance.
“Even before the beginning of the harvest, this vintage was acclaimed as "vintage of the century". Château Margaux 1959 is really a great wine, with a powerful, complex, very fine and elegant bouquet. On the palate, it is very concentrated, powerful...Without any question, it is a very great bottle...” Château Margaux cellar notes, September 20021996 Château Margaux:
"...combining measured power, extraordinary elegance, and admirable complexity... it's a beauty! The color is opaque purple. The wine offers extraordinarily pure notes of blackberries, cassis, pain grille, and flowers, gorgeous sweetness, a seamless personality..." [Score: 99] Wine Advocate # 122, Apr 1999On 1966 Château Mouton Rothschild:
"...dark garnet color and classic sweet, spicy, tobacco, coffee, and black currant aromas are enticing..." [Score: 90] Bordeaux Book, 3rd Edition # B1, Jan 1998On 1982 Château Haut-Brion:
"...another perfect wine and one of the all-time great Haut-Brions...Complex aromatics of scorched earth, smoked herbs, and sweet red and black currants are followed by a full-bodied, silky-textured wine..." [Score: 95] Wine Advocate # 183, Jun 2009On 1982 Château La Mission Haut-Brion:
"..massive richness as well as abundant notes of black fruits, truffles, creosote, scorched earth, smoke, and camphor, a colossal mouthfeel, a layered texture, incredible depth of fruit..."[Score: 100] Wine Advocate # 183, Jun 2009On 2000 Château Le Pin:
"...explosive, virtually perfect example of this estate. Dense purple-colored, with luxurious levels of extract and richness, this intense, unctuously-textured, black fruit-filled..." [Score: 98] Wine Advocate # 146, Apr 2003On 1982 Château Cheval Blanc:
"...gorgeously sweet entry displays flavors of caramel, roasted coffee, jammy red and black fruits, coconut, and smoke. It is fat and full-bodied, with considerable tannin, structure, and muscle in the finish." [Score: 92] Wine Advocate # 129, Jun 2000On 1990 Château d'Yquem:
"...gold color is accompanied by an exceptionally sweet nose of honeyed tropical fruits, peaches, coconut, andOn 1995 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche:
apricots...massive on the palate, with layers of intensely ripe botrytis-tinged, exceptionally sweet fruit...one of the richest Yquems..." [Score: 99] Wine Advocate # 122, Apr 1999
"...Stylistically, this borrows elements from both the '97 and the '96 as it combines moderate floral notes with most of the spice, soy and hoisin of the '96 plus the densest flavors of any vintage to this point..." [Score: 94] Allen Meadows, May 20081962 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche:
"...the purity and detail are mind boggling. Silky, refined and altogether classy with a finish that goes on and on. This is a wine of drama and emotion - in short, quintessential La Tâche that is knee-bending in its brilliance..." [Score: 99] Allen Meadows, Jan 20081971 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti:
"...perfumed mix of spiced tea, smoked beef jerky and abundant earth followed by incredibly rich, dense, round and velvety full-bodied, beautifully nuanced flavors that completely coat the palate and deliver a stunningly long finish that simply goes on and on..." [Score: 98] Allen Meadows, May 2008On 1997 Harlan Estate:
"...proves that American producers can create wine as impeccable and full-bodied from start to finish as their European associates."On 2002 Screaming Eagle:
"...sweet, intense bouquet of black currant liqueur interwoven with lilac, vanillin, and subtle oak scents is followed by a majestic...extraordinary palate presence and stature. A wine of great aromatic and flavor intensity with a long, 60-second finish..." [Score: 99] Wine Advocate # 150, Dec 2003On 2000 Marcassin Chardonnay:
"...gorgeously perfumed, light green/gold-colored effort revealing tremendous power as well as notes of hazelnuts intermixed with white peaches, citrus oils, and other exotic fruits..." [Score: 98] Wine Advocate # 150, Dec 2003
ADDENDUM: the pdf file is no longer available from Spectrum Wine.
Monday, November 2, 2009
Foie gras interlude
A quick thought, I found myself describing what exactly foie gras was tonight and the many ways it can be prepared...which led to a current yearning for a SDLT burger stuffed with foie gras, aioli on the side, rosemary pomme frites.
I wonder how that'd be with an egg worked in somewhere too...
I wonder how that'd be with an egg worked in somewhere too...
Araujo Estate
Located on an alluvial fan on the northern part of the Napa Valley, east of Calistoga, think...Chateau Montelena...mmmmm...Bottle Shock.
The first cabernet vine was planted their in 1964. Some are, hopefully, almost 50 years old! They also make a lovely Syrah. About themselves, they say this:
The most recent Syrah rated by Wine Spectator was the 1995, unfortunate there's not more 1995 Araujo Estate Eisele Vineyard Syrah tasting notes, printed 4/30/99:
Hey want to see something cool? View video on a wine auction at Daniel in New York City, click on this link to a Wine Spectator video on auctions. I'm going to one of those, sooner than later...because I'm all for enjoying the things on my wish list.
The first cabernet vine was planted their in 1964. Some are, hopefully, almost 50 years old! They also make a lovely Syrah. About themselves, they say this:
Protected by the Palisades Mountains to the north and cooled by westerly breezes from the Chalk Hill Gap, this 38-acre vineyard is planted on well-drained cobbly soils that produce a low yielding crop of exceptionally concentrated fruit. The wines produced in this remarkable place have a rare combination of forthright character with precisely defined flavors and fine textures, deep concentration without any sense of heaviness, and the capacity to develop profound complexity with age.Altagracia was first bottled the year of my graduation, that's one for the memory. And an outstanding Syrah is on their hands, a grape I hold dear, here's evidence.
The most recent Syrah rated by Wine Spectator was the 1995, unfortunate there's not more 1995 Araujo Estate Eisele Vineyard Syrah tasting notes, printed 4/30/99:
Smooth, rich and elegant, with polished currant, leather, anise, earth and mineral flavors that are complex and concentrated, sophisticated and long. Best from 2000 through 2008. 340 cases made. –JLThe 2006 Syrah was co-fermented with 4% Viognier--think Côte-Rôtie style--with 21 months in French oak. If you've ever seen A Good Year with Russell Crowe, I believe it's based in the Rhone. The restaurant is also pretty good.
Hey want to see something cool? View video on a wine auction at Daniel in New York City, click on this link to a Wine Spectator video on auctions. I'm going to one of those, sooner than later...because I'm all for enjoying the things on my wish list.
Sunday, November 1, 2009
2008 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc
Cloudy Bay produces classical Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, but does so at a significant price premium...perhaps that's why it's under the LVMH umbrella. If you're lucky, you can find it for under $20. Frankly, if I were to suggest a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, I'd go with The Crossings at half the price.
Bright citrus aromas with flavors of grapefruit, lime, green pepper, and a touch of passion fruit complemented by a crisp acidity and juicy finish.
Bright citrus aromas with flavors of grapefruit, lime, green pepper, and a touch of passion fruit complemented by a crisp acidity and juicy finish.
2005 Grebennikoff Cabernet Sauvignon
Grebennikoff makes a mere 100 cases of this Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon per year with 20% merlot from estate vineyards. Oddly enough, you won't find this wine on their website, nor will you find it in any retail stores. However, you'll find it--dutifully nicknamed "The Diesel" by Seth Mandeville--BY THE GLASS at L'Espalier or by the bottle at any Sel De La Terre.
Full-bodied, balanced, and aromatic with flavors of black currant, mint, eucalyptus, earth, and cedar with well-integrated tannins and a long, juicy finish. Think steak or better yet, braised short ribs.
Full-bodied, balanced, and aromatic with flavors of black currant, mint, eucalyptus, earth, and cedar with well-integrated tannins and a long, juicy finish. Think steak or better yet, braised short ribs.
Thursday, October 29, 2009
2007 Westport Rivers Rkatsiteli
This is an impromptu tasting of a glass of white wine that I poured nearly 12 hours ago and totally forgot about.
My earlier review noted a touch of acidity with great fruit flavors and a strong, lasting finish. Currently, stone fruits dominate the aroma and the wine's formerly glorious acidity is practically non-existent, although I detect a mild presence at the very height of the finish.
My earlier review noted a touch of acidity with great fruit flavors and a strong, lasting finish. Currently, stone fruits dominate the aroma and the wine's formerly glorious acidity is practically non-existent, although I detect a mild presence at the very height of the finish.
Moleworth on minerality.
James Moleworth ($) blogs, Andy Rooney style, in defense of the wine descriptor, minerality. Without further a due and for your reading pleasure:
I remember the first time I asked someone what exactly "oaky" meant when she referred to her favorite Chardonnay: Jordan. Moleworth recalls:
Simply put, there are a few things in life that can’t ever be explained—they just are. People tend to look like their dogs. It always rains right as weekend getaway traffic starts. And there’s minerality in wines.
The wine lexicon is always taking some heat, and that’s a good thing....
There’s a lexicon for any field of endeavor or pleasure that draws people to it. Do we question the terms "can of corn" or "frozen rope" in baseball? I remember when hearing those for the first time, they certainly sounded odd. But they also piqued my interest in the game. When I heard the stories or explanations behind those expressions, it just kindled my interest even more. The lexicon helped to lure me in.
The wine lexicon has grown and developed as wine writing has spread far and wide. It’s certainly broader than ever. Today, delivering a concise tasting note that conveys to the reader a sense of the wine is a critical part of wine writing—always was, always will be. But I agree that there’s a balancing act when using the wine lexicon. Too concise a note, and it comes off as cold and uninteresting (both the writer and the wine). Too much baroque language, however, and the note comes off as lacking critical integrity, turning into a fan-styled rah-rah instead.
"Minerality" is one of those terms that convey a distinct aspect of wine, a bracing, distinctly non-fruit aspect. It also takes on personal connotations when people use it. I’ve kicked the jagged limestone chunks in Gigondas and tripped over the rolled stones of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I’ve scrambled up crumbling granite slopes in Chile, gotten sandstone dust in my mouth while in South Africa and been caked with clay and loam in Argentina. They all were different and after experiencing them all firsthand, I feel I can often find these different aspects of minerality in the wines.
Or should I say, in the better wines? No one ever seems to find minerality in an $8 critter label wine. Instead, it always seems to be in those wines that offer more complexity and dimension, the wines that speak distinctly of where they’re from. And ultimately, that’s what we’re all looking for—complexity and diversity. The more diverse the offerings we have to describe, the more diverse our lexicon needs to become.
So, sometimes I use terms like "iron" or "loam" to help convey that diversity. I don’t want to just say "minerality" all the time and leave it to the reader to assume there’s a range. But I also don’t want to write a 400-word tasting note with endless descriptors that turn into run-on sentences, leaving the reader blurry-eyed (though I don’t begrudge a writer their personal style). It's a balancing act, just like the wine itself.
I remember the first time I asked someone what exactly "oaky" meant when she referred to her favorite Chardonnay: Jordan. Moleworth recalls:
I remember one day as a youth, when my father was waxing poetic about a wine he was having at the dinner table. "Oak" this and all these fruit flavors he was finding. It was made from grapes, I thought, so how could there be raspberry and cherry in the wine? And oak?
“Think about licking this table,” said my dad, deadly serious.
My sister and I burst out laughing. We just didn’t get it then. But looking back now, I realize that incident helped kindle my interest in wine and, I think, "get it" today.
So, I’m going to hold the line on using the term "minerality," in no small part because I hope that it turns more folks on to wine, than not.
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Petit Syrah
The first winery I ever visited was Concannon Vineyards in the Livermore Valley, I was a senior in high school on a science trip to San Francisco and the surrounding areas. A beautiful, memorable trip. While checking out the website linked in my prior post (below), I came across an interesting blog post with the title P.S. I love you, keep in mind, this is all while trying to decide whether to consider linking to the site.
Obviously the movie came to mind and I clicked through with a bit of intrigue. Hence the topic of this post. Petit Syrah is a wonderful grape varietal, I've tasted several, but never recorded anything on them. I promise to share experiences with them at a later date, in the meantime, check out my review of Shafer's Syrah, Petit Syrah blend: Relentless. However, I will leave you with one particular Petite Syrah with an almost cult-like following: Stags' Leap Winery.
Courtney Cochran tells us a bit about the varietal and makes some recommendations:
P.S. Yes I know there's different spellings and I've chosen one not in sync with what Courtney writes, you may disagree, but I'm sticking to it.
P.S. I love you =)
Obviously the movie came to mind and I clicked through with a bit of intrigue. Hence the topic of this post. Petit Syrah is a wonderful grape varietal, I've tasted several, but never recorded anything on them. I promise to share experiences with them at a later date, in the meantime, check out my review of Shafer's Syrah, Petit Syrah blend: Relentless. However, I will leave you with one particular Petite Syrah with an almost cult-like following: Stags' Leap Winery.
Courtney Cochran tells us a bit about the varietal and makes some recommendations:
Grown in France under a synonym, Durif, Petite Sirah really comes into its own in California, where plantings are on the rise. Stylistically, Petite Sirah is the vinous equivalent of comfort food: warm, hearty and perfectly suited to cold weather. Watch for the grape's signature notes of jammy black fruits, espresso, charcoal and black pepper in these selections; prices are approximate.I agree with the Bogle suggestion, have yet to try those other two but certainly the place to grow them would be the Sierra Foothills and Lodi. I'm thinking Clos Saron's Black Pearl. Speaking of Clos Saron, anyone ever have one of their Pinot Noirs?
Bogle Petite Sirah, California, $9
Lava Cap Granite Hill Petite Sirah, Sierra Foothills, $25
Michael-David Winery Earthquake Petite Sirah, Lodi, $25
P.S. Yes I know there's different spellings and I've chosen one not in sync with what Courtney writes, you may disagree, but I'm sticking to it.
P.S. I love you =)
Can you say "productivity booster"?
Bacon jam
Some of my colleagues go wild over pork. I saw bacon jam on Uncrate.com and about lost myself in complete bliss over the idea of spreading this over some wheat toast in the morning along with my eggs, more bacon on the side, and black coffee. Seriously, this sounds delicious!
P.S. Eggs are fun and according to some, notoriously difficult, to pair wine with. Frankly, I think Erik Johnson said it best, "Want to drink burgundy with pizza? Go ahead! In fact, give me a call--I'll join you".
ADDENDUM: Bacon jam sells T-shirts! Steep, $35 + taxes/S&H, but how could you resist?
…..what the heck is bacon jam?...
It is something we’ve been cooking up for a couple of years now on our trailers and for our burgers
…….we take a big bunch of really really good bacon, and render it down...add a bunch of spices..onions, etc..and let it simmer for about 6 hours…give it a quick puree, and blast chill it…and you have bacon jam..
P.S. Eggs are fun and according to some, notoriously difficult, to pair wine with. Frankly, I think Erik Johnson said it best, "Want to drink burgundy with pizza? Go ahead! In fact, give me a call--I'll join you".
ADDENDUM: Bacon jam sells T-shirts! Steep, $35 + taxes/S&H, but how could you resist?
Monday, October 26, 2009
Le Bernardin
A guest review on Wine me, Dine me and a personal shout out to Patrick of L'Espalier fame, one of Le Bernardin's newest talent acquisitions.
The dining room is beautiful and understated – clean lines, lit candles, light wood. The floral arrangements set all around are seasonal and stunning. We did not have to wait a single moment for our table even though we were early. The service is cordial. No one fawns over you – they do not have to. It is a privilege to be there. The food is the star of the show, not them, and certainly not you. As long as you go into the place knowing that, you will not get offended (some people need their proverbial asses kissed at all times. We’re totally not like that.). The service was unbelievably precise. A chair was pulled away from the table the moment you wanted to use the restroom. Your plate was cleared the moment you finished your last bite. The tablecloth was crumbed, wine was poured, glasses refilled. If you needed to walk back to your table, the staff would part like the Red Sea so you could make your way through.
[...]
The only disappointing portion of the meal (and by “disappointing” I mean “I didn’t have an orgasm when I ate it”) was dessert. Mike got a dark chocolate, caramel and peanut butter tart with praline ice cream and I got a hazelnut cream with homemade brown butter ice cream. Both were tasty but not extraordinary, but that was okay by me. By this point we were so thrilled with the food they could have given me an ice cream sandwich and I’d have been happy. We did order an after dinner drink. I had an armangnac and Mike got a cognac. That was probably a bad idea because they were expensive, but whatever, they were amazing and a perfect finish to our night of extravagance. We also got an amazing little set of petit fours at the very end of the meal which we ate with gusto despite being full. One of the main complaints about the restaurant is that the portions are too small. I say that people eat too much. The portions were perfect.
The bill was…well…it was big. Very big. Bigger than one ought to ever spend on dinner. But this wasn’t just dinner – it was an experience and one that neither of us will ever forget. We returned home broke, a little drunk, and unbelievably happy. If I were a millionaire, I’d eat there every week. As it stands, once a year will have to do. If you are ever in NYC and have some cash handy, please, go to Le Bernardin. Lunch is a bit cheaper (four courses for $68 – a steal!), so that’s a good option too. But if you love fish and you love food, you must experience Eric Ripert’s genius at least once. You won’t regret it.
Sunday, October 25, 2009
2001 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
Brunello--the Sangiovese clone know as Sangiovese Gross--is responsible for many awesome wines coming from Montalcino, gets its name from the brownish hue of the grape when it's ripe. There are three distinct areas in Montalcino, each of which produces a particular style. Generally speaking, from one of my reading sources, brunellos are big, rich, powerful and firm, exhibiting a peppery, almost spicy characteristic, along with tea, cinnamon, and fig.
Montalcino is divided into three major regions: the sunbaked southwest that produces big and rich wines, the northeast-facing scarp slope yields the elegant wines, and the firmest come from the sheltered southeast slope which is home to the pioneering Biondi-Santi.
Compared to my last review of this wine, I've come a long way and so has this 95-pointer from the classic 2001 vintage, which according to Wine Spectator, I opened too early. I rationalize it as research on how it's developed 18 months later.
Beautifully aromatic with aromas of dried citrus, culminating with red fruits, particularly with dark cherries dominating, followed by earth, leather and a touch of creamy vanilla and wood. On the palate, it exhibits a nice profile of red fruits intermixed with just the slightest touch of acidity and firm, yet subtle tannins that lead to a persistently dry finish.
Enjoyed alongside a nice medium rare New York Strip. As for cheese, I'm thinking Piave Vechio, Parmesan Reggiano, tallegio, perla gresia, cacio di bosco.
Second day: garnet-brick colors with more pronounced leather aromas, soft red fruit flavors on the palette, low acidity, dry finish.
Where to find it? One possibility D&L Liquors in Waltham and also in Woburn (~$70). I know Deluca's on Newbury St and Fairfield St carries Capanna wines, but not the 2001 Riserva.
Montalcino is divided into three major regions: the sunbaked southwest that produces big and rich wines, the northeast-facing scarp slope yields the elegant wines, and the firmest come from the sheltered southeast slope which is home to the pioneering Biondi-Santi.
Compared to my last review of this wine, I've come a long way and so has this 95-pointer from the classic 2001 vintage, which according to Wine Spectator, I opened too early. I rationalize it as research on how it's developed 18 months later.
Beautifully aromatic with aromas of dried citrus, culminating with red fruits, particularly with dark cherries dominating, followed by earth, leather and a touch of creamy vanilla and wood. On the palate, it exhibits a nice profile of red fruits intermixed with just the slightest touch of acidity and firm, yet subtle tannins that lead to a persistently dry finish.
Enjoyed alongside a nice medium rare New York Strip. As for cheese, I'm thinking Piave Vechio, Parmesan Reggiano, tallegio, perla gresia, cacio di bosco.
Second day: garnet-brick colors with more pronounced leather aromas, soft red fruit flavors on the palette, low acidity, dry finish.
Where to find it? One possibility D&L Liquors in Waltham and also in Woburn (~$70). I know Deluca's on Newbury St and Fairfield St carries Capanna wines, but not the 2001 Riserva.
Stay tuned for a recap of today's tastings
You can expect an upcoming summary of a day full of tastings in the outskirts outside of Boston in couple of days:
Grand Tasting at Gordon's Fine Wine & Liquors in Waltham
Fall Tasting at Spirited Gourmet in Winchester
Followed by an evening at the restaurant where I learned about a neighbor of Peter Michael who makes less than 100 cases of lovely sauvignon blanc, Knight's Bridge, which also has an awesome website, with recipes, maps, and excellent food pairings with their wine--I'm feeling a trend of only 100 cases of each. Here's one of the pairings:
Also, Gordon's hosts awesomes events, like the Sommelier Smackdown, 4 courses, 2 sommeliers, 8 different glasses of wine, you choose the winner, hosted by Sel De La Terre duo: Ian Grossman and Louis DiBicarri.
Grand Tasting at Gordon's Fine Wine & Liquors in Waltham
Fall Tasting at Spirited Gourmet in Winchester
Followed by an evening at the restaurant where I learned about a neighbor of Peter Michael who makes less than 100 cases of lovely sauvignon blanc, Knight's Bridge, which also has an awesome website, with recipes, maps, and excellent food pairings with their wine--I'm feeling a trend of only 100 cases of each. Here's one of the pairings:
2006 Knights Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon: Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard:P.S. The Spirited Gourmet in Belmont has a series of magnums like Grgich Hills 02 Cabernet Sauvignon on clearance, ones that I bet are close to peaking and in some rare cases, getting ready for the long haul of 10 years, maybe more. I've been tempted, but have yet to succumb.
Herb-crusted lamb loin with terrine of potatoes and local radish/haricot vert salad. For dessert, couple with chocolate soufflé cake with crème anglaise and fresh blackberries.
Also, Gordon's hosts awesomes events, like the Sommelier Smackdown, 4 courses, 2 sommeliers, 8 different glasses of wine, you choose the winner, hosted by Sel De La Terre duo: Ian Grossman and Louis DiBicarri.
Friday, October 23, 2009
$1 Million dollar wine book
Kraken Opus CEO Karl Fowler makes a bold claim in saying "this is not a book", but it's backed up by the inclusion of a six-bottle case from 100 wineries to be selected in March at a gathering of top sommeliers in London. I wonder who'll be in attendance at this exclusive tasting to be known as "The United Nations of Wine".
Rachel Solar reports for Stuff@Night that only 100 books will be published. This makes 60,000 bottles, 600 bottles from each winery. CBC News has a more accurate price tag: £640,000 or $1.12 million with a weight over 30 kg and a size of 1.5 square meters. So what wines do you think will be selected?
I certainly hope Joly's Clos de la Coulée de Serrant makes the list because it's an exceptional chenin blanc--think seductive--so exceptional, in fact, to have its very own AOC (think Romanée-Conti and Château-Grillet).
Rachel Solar reports for Stuff@Night that only 100 books will be published. This makes 60,000 bottles, 600 bottles from each winery. CBC News has a more accurate price tag: £640,000 or $1.12 million with a weight over 30 kg and a size of 1.5 square meters. So what wines do you think will be selected?
I certainly hope Joly's Clos de la Coulée de Serrant makes the list because it's an exceptional chenin blanc--think seductive--so exceptional, in fact, to have its very own AOC (think Romanée-Conti and Château-Grillet).
Thursday, October 22, 2009
1997 Freemark Abbbey Bosche Cabernet Sauvignon
From one of the guys, more specifically, The Wine Commonsewer.
A review of a stellar vintage in Napa and one of its major players from back in the day...e.g. Judgment of Paris, think Bottle Shock, the movie, but the part that should've been about the reds.
I've tasted the 2002, a legendary cabernet from a great year, yielding an aromatic Cabernet Sauvignon with juicy fruit that you could smell from a mile away while properly decanting with one of these into one of these). Awesome finish.
A review of a stellar vintage in Napa and one of its major players from back in the day...e.g. Judgment of Paris, think Bottle Shock, the movie, but the part that should've been about the reds.
I've tasted the 2002, a legendary cabernet from a great year, yielding an aromatic Cabernet Sauvignon with juicy fruit that you could smell from a mile away while properly decanting with one of these into one of these). Awesome finish.
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
On dessert wines
Via Erik Johnson (Facebook). Online WSJ profiles California dessert wines.
My first memorable dessert wine was King's Estate Vin de Glaciere Pinot Gris with creme brulee at Hamiltons (Facebook).
My first memorable dessert wine was King's Estate Vin de Glaciere Pinot Gris with creme brulee at Hamiltons (Facebook).
Want your own cask of scotch?
Glenglassaugh gives scotch drinkers something to enjoy on a more personable touch. Made by men who distinguished themselves at places like Highland Park, Scapa, Glenmorangie, and Balvenie (I attended a tasting of Balvenie a few months back). From UrbanDaddy.com's email newsletter:
Introducing Glenglassaugh's Cask Ordering Service, a radical new concept that lets you order up a full cask of scotch now and drink it down in the future, available now.UrbanDaddy Boston also gave me the inside scoop for The Macallan's recent tasting at Cyclo-Rama.
Essentially, it's something you've always wanted: an epic amount of scotch, all for you. The brand sets you up with an octave—basically, a 50-liter cask—of hooch, and then lets it age for at least seven years. (You can let it go as long as you want—and you can even fill it up with the raw stuff yourself, if you happen to be in the Scottish neighborhood.) The price tag is a little more than 800 big ones, though it averages out to about 16 bucks a bottle—think of it as a blue-chip investment.
After that, just sit back and wait. Every year, they'll send you some samples just so you know how things are coming along. Then, when time is up, they'll bottle it for you and ship it your way—so in seven, maybe 12 years, you'll get a knock on the door from whatever hybrid of FedEx-DHL-UPS is still around, ready to drop off nearly 50 bottles of your very own, ready-to-drink scotch.
2007 Westport Rivers Rkatsiteli
Westport Rivers Winery in Westport, MA is a quaint, lively place and if one is so inclined, include a brewery next door. They specialize in one of the most versatile styles of wine when it comes to drinking on any occasion: Champagne. In the case of most every maker who uses the traditional method outside of the Champagne region in France, they call it sparkling wine. But that's not the point of this post. The point isn't over the fact The point here is to share what else they've got in their hands with you.
Rkatsiteli originates from Georgia (Russia) and Wikipedia seeks a source verifying whether it was enjoyed extensively throughout the USSR, accounting for 18% of all wine production. The 2007 Westport Rivers Rkatsiteli is hailed to be the best vintage yet by a member of the Russell family. It's a delicious, medium-bodied white with great fruit flavors balanced with a nice touch of acidity and followed by a strong, lasting finish. The finish could be attributed to the meal I just ate, seared pork alfredo with a touch of chili garlic sauce.
Shameless self-promotion: Try this with charcuterie, things like SDLT's duck liver mousse with a glass of both the Westport RJR and the 2007 Rkatsiteli. Tues. & Weds. after 9 pm are charcuterie bar nights, $10 all you can eat, downstairs bar.
Stay tuned for reviews on some of the following, including their rare Pineau de Pinot, a distilled Pinot Noir blended with fermented Pinot Noir juice.
I've experienced many of their wines:
Rose of Pinot Noir (drank on the beach with rabbit and duck filled charcuterie items from Formaggio Kitchen, Cambridge).
2007 Chardonnay sporting low acidity, slightly creamy texture, and flavors of gala apple.
2001 Westport Imperial Sec, offering a slight sweetness mingling with stone fruit, then subdued by a rush of its lovely effervescence into a long, vibrant finish.
1993 Maximillian, their Tête de Cuvée, is aged on the lees for 15 years before disgorgement, creating a deliciously complex sparkling wine with beautiful gold colors and a firework show of bubbles.
1999 Blanc de Blancs
2001 Blanc de Noirs
2003/04 Westport Rivers RJR
non-vintage Pinot Gris
2006 Rkatsiteli
Rkatsiteli originates from Georgia (Russia) and Wikipedia seeks a source verifying whether it was enjoyed extensively throughout the USSR, accounting for 18% of all wine production. The 2007 Westport Rivers Rkatsiteli is hailed to be the best vintage yet by a member of the Russell family. It's a delicious, medium-bodied white with great fruit flavors balanced with a nice touch of acidity and followed by a strong, lasting finish. The finish could be attributed to the meal I just ate, seared pork alfredo with a touch of chili garlic sauce.
Shameless self-promotion: Try this with charcuterie, things like SDLT's duck liver mousse with a glass of both the Westport RJR and the 2007 Rkatsiteli. Tues. & Weds. after 9 pm are charcuterie bar nights, $10 all you can eat, downstairs bar.
Stay tuned for reviews on some of the following, including their rare Pineau de Pinot, a distilled Pinot Noir blended with fermented Pinot Noir juice.
I've experienced many of their wines:
Rose of Pinot Noir (drank on the beach with rabbit and duck filled charcuterie items from Formaggio Kitchen, Cambridge).
2007 Chardonnay sporting low acidity, slightly creamy texture, and flavors of gala apple.
2001 Westport Imperial Sec, offering a slight sweetness mingling with stone fruit, then subdued by a rush of its lovely effervescence into a long, vibrant finish.
1993 Maximillian, their Tête de Cuvée, is aged on the lees for 15 years before disgorgement, creating a deliciously complex sparkling wine with beautiful gold colors and a firework show of bubbles.
1999 Blanc de Blancs
2001 Blanc de Noirs
2003/04 Westport Rivers RJR
non-vintage Pinot Gris
2006 Rkatsiteli
"Foxy" gene identified
Wine Spectator reports on advances in successfully isolating the gene that leads to "foxy" aromas in wine. While it'll probably be possible to breed a grape that has "European flavors" and "American resistance" in the near future, getting around numerous regulations over labeling, licensing, and everything else will be interesting to say the least.
A single gene change, whether through breeding or direct genetic manipulation, robs a grape of the right to carry a famous varietal name like Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay. The hurdle of marketing new varieties might be the biggest challenge of all.Additionally, pesticides are the main expense for vineyards and one of their greatest worries is mildew, for which they spray every 2 weeks to prevent.
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
2005 Denuño Jumilla, Spain
I worked an event for the New England Culinary Guild at the Commander's Mansion in Watertown. There I met a member of the family behind BLM Wine and Spirits. We poured several wines, unfortunately I only really tasted two of the wines, both red, enough to develop the opinion; the others were a Pinot Gris, a Prosecco, and a Kerner.
2005 Denuño: Jumilla, ESP
This exciting blend of 90% Petit Verdot, 5% Monastrell, and 5% Syrah with 13.5% alcohol, 6 months of barrel aging juice is delicious. I was speaking with John, host of a radio talk show on food and wine, about the varietal characters of Petit Verdot and how this was the most petit verdot I had ever had in a wine and hence the closest thing I've gotten to experiencing its pure varietal characteral s demonstrated in Heitz's 100% Petit Verdot, which also, surprisingly enough, has 13.5% alcohol.
The Winemaker calls wild berries, spice, and toasted oak. I wrote, garnet to ruby colors on the fringe, with creamy sort of dark fruit (black & red), spice, and a slight touch of an earthy element. A bit restrained when first opened. Soft tannins, low acidity, and a nice finish round out this easy-drinker. Decant.
Many people asked about how much I thought this wine would cost in the store. I reasoned it'll be no more than $15, but I'm curious to find out. Also, one particularly lovely lady ;) asked about the wine's with the most reservatrol in the same line as pinot noir. For the record, Tannat comes from the Madiran and has been suggested to me to have the most reservatrol.
Stay tuned for more on Pinot Noir, and for the lovely lady who requested a list of affordable Pinot Noirs, one will follow shortly.
The other red was a Mendocino Barbera that was deliciously plush with red fruit with some zippy acidity and mild tannins (IMO, tannins + meatless pizzas = bad), I instantly thought back to sharing many Regina's margarita pizzas with medium basil and crispy crust with many bottles of Barbera d'Asti and Barbera d'Alba.
Shameless plug to somewhere else related to wine: A perfectly affordable case of wine.
2005 Denuño: Jumilla, ESP
This exciting blend of 90% Petit Verdot, 5% Monastrell, and 5% Syrah with 13.5% alcohol, 6 months of barrel aging juice is delicious. I was speaking with John, host of a radio talk show on food and wine, about the varietal characters of Petit Verdot and how this was the most petit verdot I had ever had in a wine and hence the closest thing I've gotten to experiencing its pure varietal characteral s demonstrated in Heitz's 100% Petit Verdot, which also, surprisingly enough, has 13.5% alcohol.
The Winemaker calls wild berries, spice, and toasted oak. I wrote, garnet to ruby colors on the fringe, with creamy sort of dark fruit (black & red), spice, and a slight touch of an earthy element. A bit restrained when first opened. Soft tannins, low acidity, and a nice finish round out this easy-drinker. Decant.
Many people asked about how much I thought this wine would cost in the store. I reasoned it'll be no more than $15, but I'm curious to find out. Also, one particularly lovely lady ;) asked about the wine's with the most reservatrol in the same line as pinot noir. For the record, Tannat comes from the Madiran and has been suggested to me to have the most reservatrol.
Stay tuned for more on Pinot Noir, and for the lovely lady who requested a list of affordable Pinot Noirs, one will follow shortly.
The other red was a Mendocino Barbera that was deliciously plush with red fruit with some zippy acidity and mild tannins (IMO, tannins + meatless pizzas = bad), I instantly thought back to sharing many Regina's margarita pizzas with medium basil and crispy crust with many bottles of Barbera d'Asti and Barbera d'Alba.
Shameless plug to somewhere else related to wine: A perfectly affordable case of wine.
Sunday, October 18, 2009
2006 Gaja Sito Moresco & Ca'Marcanda Blanc?
Garnet red with shades of light pink at its furthest edge. Wonderful aromas of black and red fruits, roses, subtle spiciness, leather, and dark chocolate; a very aromatic, well balanced wine with fine, integrated tannins with just a touch of acidity and a long finish.
This wine is being enjoyed alongside Chinese watercress sauteed with garlic and a pork stir fry with mushrooms and peppers heaped atop a mound of white rice. I'd also pair this wine with hearty fare: steak, duck, pork, short ribs, pizza with mozzarella and basil, and most anything with white or black truffles. As for cheese, Perla Gresia, Cacio di Bosco (sheep), robiola, La Tur, Tallegio, Piave Vecchio.
My review of the 2005 Sito Moresco is here. Two bottles left of the 2006, to be drank sooner than later, probably over the next year.
Side note: Gaia Gaja writes about Ca'Marcanda's 2009 harvest and their experimentation with white varietals in Wine Spectator.
This wine is being enjoyed alongside Chinese watercress sauteed with garlic and a pork stir fry with mushrooms and peppers heaped atop a mound of white rice. I'd also pair this wine with hearty fare: steak, duck, pork, short ribs, pizza with mozzarella and basil, and most anything with white or black truffles. As for cheese, Perla Gresia, Cacio di Bosco (sheep), robiola, La Tur, Tallegio, Piave Vecchio.
My review of the 2005 Sito Moresco is here. Two bottles left of the 2006, to be drank sooner than later, probably over the next year.
Side note: Gaia Gaja writes about Ca'Marcanda's 2009 harvest and their experimentation with white varietals in Wine Spectator.
I like the strong experimental nature of Ca'Marcanda. Since the winery is quite young, with the first vines planted in 1996, we give total freedom to all sorts of experiments, such as planting white grapes, green harvest and trimming, and different methods of vine training (such as Guyot and Cordone Speronato). Each parcel that has been treated differently is kept separate for micro-fermentation and aging. Our experimental wines currently are sold in bulk.
[...]
At Ca' Marcanda, there are two distinct soil types, terre bianche (white soils), composed mainly of clay and limestone, and terre brune (dark soils), which contain less limestone. The grapes from the darker soil taste fruitier, sweeter and more delicate, with softer tannins. Grapes grown in the lighter soil have intense flavor, bigger tannins and a notable structure that differentiates those for the Camarcanda (terre bianche) from those for the Promis (terre brune) bottling.
Foie gras
Salon cuts through the hype over foie gras.
I love Hudson Valley foie gras turned into a torchon, I love it on top of a SDLT burger, my suggestion for a SDLT burger with foie gras torchon was featured in Boston Magazine's Best of Boston award write-up for SDLT's bar menu, the behemoth was noted by Boston Magazine editors to be
I love Hudson Valley foie gras turned into a torchon, I love it on top of a SDLT burger, my suggestion for a SDLT burger with foie gras torchon was featured in Boston Magazine's Best of Boston award write-up for SDLT's bar menu, the behemoth was noted by Boston Magazine editors to be
positively gut-busting.More importantly, here's a much more enlightening quote, specifically from Izzy Yanay, owner of Hudson Valley foie gras,
The foie gras could be delicious, but if it's being produced with the torture of animals, it should not be produced. It should be banned, and I'll be the first one to close the farm if the duck would not be comfortable.Try pairing foie gras in its many forms with a Sauternes, Alsace Riesling or Guwerztraminer (especially SGNs & VTs), Samos Muscat, or better yet, Shadow Canyon's late harvested, botrytized Pinot Blanc known as Paeonia. Paeonia is stellar, viscous, well-balanced, complex, and utterly delicious; the current vintage is 2004 and it comes from the Bien Nacido Vineyard, home to some fabulous Syrahs and also white Rhone varietals like Roussanne.
1997 Kalin Cellars Sauvignon Blanc
Found this beauty at Eastern Standard (ESK) for around $50 after attending Sommelier Smackdown where Kate Moore of L'Espalier took the crown from Todd Lipman of Bin 26 Enoteca as they dueled it out to pair 4 wines to the theme of Breakfast for Dinner.
Deep golden color, subtle fruit, traces of sweetness, low acidity, nice creamy'ish mouthfeel, long finish.
Deep golden color, subtle fruit, traces of sweetness, low acidity, nice creamy'ish mouthfeel, long finish.
1995 Guenoc Reserve Beckstoffer IV Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
At age 13, you could smell and taste the loamy currant, hints of cedar, well-integrated tannins coat the mouth, all of this leaves me wanting a bit more. This pales in comparison to the other wine of the night (see below).
ADDDENDUM: You can't see below because this blog has been imported and this post was retrieved from my archives: 10/3/08). The other wine of the night: 2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia. We had both these wines with porterhouses and I think sauteed spinach, peppers, and other vegetables along with baguettes. Good night. Thanks P.
ADDDENDUM: You can't see below because this blog has been imported and this post was retrieved from my archives: 10/3/08). The other wine of the night: 2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia. We had both these wines with porterhouses and I think sauteed spinach, peppers, and other vegetables along with baguettes. Good night. Thanks P.
On Steaks (Jean Luc Colombo)
Just thinking back to my earlier post, steaks are so easy to pair with red wines that you've tasted before. Think back to what the wine tasted like and then season your steaks accordingly.
Example, I'm thinking of Syrah. One by made by the man who said this:
Here's what I do with the steak: rosemary, some garlic (completely optional), olive oil, and cook to R- (rare minus) by special cooking method not permitted in restaurants per health regulations. Then sear the steaks under some fire after seasoning with sea salt, fresh cracked black peppercorn, fresh rosemary, thyme. Think garrigue when seasoning.
Sidenote:
Speaking of steak wines, Wine Spectator's Sam Gugino talks about Wagyu Skirt (skirt steaks are one of the butcher's cut (like hangar steak) and red wines like a California meritage, Super Tuscan, Aussie Shiraz (Mollydooker's $90 Carnival of Love), and an Argentinian Malbec. Mollydooker, with 95 pts, was the only one to receive a plug because it was deemed WS worthy. Don't get me wrong, it's a great wine, in the same level as this.
Beckstoffer grapes are on James Laube's newest hot list of California Cabernets and understandably so. My last Beckstoffer encounters were through several wines by Anthony Bell's Bell Wine Cellars, and a 1995 Guenoc Beckstoffer IV from over a year ago.
Facebook plug to Bell Wine Cellars and a bravo to Anthony Bell for the 2004 Sonnette! I'm looking forward to reviewing his Clone 6 Cabernet Sauvignon.
Example, I'm thinking of Syrah. One by made by the man who said this:
Cornas is part of the Northern Rhône hillsides, which is where Syrah comes from, and where Syrah gives its greatest expression. At the same time, the hills of Cornas benefit from Mediterranean influences, which bring a lot of character to the wine.Cornas' hero, and non-traditionalist (supscription required?) Jean Luc Colombo's Les Farot Syrah, 2006 Côtes du Rhône. It's 100 % Syrah, yummy with spice, juicy, with a nice earthiness accompanying a grip of fruit and nicely balanced tannins. His "non-traditional" ways: French oak, destemming, and green harvests.
Here's what I do with the steak: rosemary, some garlic (completely optional), olive oil, and cook to R- (rare minus) by special cooking method not permitted in restaurants per health regulations. Then sear the steaks under some fire after seasoning with sea salt, fresh cracked black peppercorn, fresh rosemary, thyme. Think garrigue when seasoning.
Sidenote:
Speaking of steak wines, Wine Spectator's Sam Gugino talks about Wagyu Skirt (skirt steaks are one of the butcher's cut (like hangar steak) and red wines like a California meritage, Super Tuscan, Aussie Shiraz (Mollydooker's $90 Carnival of Love), and an Argentinian Malbec. Mollydooker, with 95 pts, was the only one to receive a plug because it was deemed WS worthy. Don't get me wrong, it's a great wine, in the same level as this.
Beckstoffer grapes are on James Laube's newest hot list of California Cabernets and understandably so. My last Beckstoffer encounters were through several wines by Anthony Bell's Bell Wine Cellars, and a 1995 Guenoc Beckstoffer IV from over a year ago.
Facebook plug to Bell Wine Cellars and a bravo to Anthony Bell for the 2004 Sonnette! I'm looking forward to reviewing his Clone 6 Cabernet Sauvignon.
Spirited Gourmet, Winchester, MA
Erskine poured, I drank, spit some, and took notes each of which is followed by my at the moment wine pairing with each:
2008 South African Sauvignon Blanc from Stellenbosch made by Mulderbosch
Acclaimed to be the standard for South African Sauvignon Blanc is a pretty big assertion, an agreeable standard, Right now, I'm thinking pan sear scallops (dusted in sugar, honey, butter), speck, citrus, and a plate studded with balsamic reduction for some toasted sourdough baguettes.
Newton's other Chardonnay, 2007 Red Label
A Wall Street Journal Top Pick, nicely balanced, buttery and oaky chardonnay with a nice creaminess, and small notes of acidity. Think butter poached lobster (I'd also go with a white Burgundy), polenta, coddled egg, and tempura bok choy (from the man at the heart of the house at SDLT Back Bay).
2007 White Riesling by Fenestra
Displays varietal character aromas like good Australian or Alsace rieslings, but not much on the palette. It'd be decent with a variety of foods, but not something to scream to the hills about, it's more about lubricating the company that you keep with these wines ;) Decent value for an evening sipper with a few indulgent snacks, close friends, and a show.
A 2007 Bonarda (aka Charbono) made by La Posta, from Mendoza
Charbono is a great steak wine, specifically if you're having a BBQ involving charcoal and beef or smoked baby back ribs rubbed in a sweet marinade involving lots of black peppercorn. It's the most widely planted grape in Argentina, but it follows in the shadow of Argentinian Malbecs, a major sales beacon not short in supply. Perfect for a night by the fire with dark chocolate, e.g. after aforementioned dinner above. Keep your eyes peeled for my review of and pairing with Robert Foley's Charbono.
2005 Gundlach Bundschu's (GunBun) Mountain Cuvee from Sonoma
Yummy. Bordeaux like with great fruit with a nice peppery punch of Syrah. Erskine suggests roast leg of lamb. Agreed with some carrots; bacon wrapped fingerlings and a sides of rosemary pomme frites and broccoli sauteed in garlic, soy sauce, and oyster sauce.
2007 Pillar Box Red Hendry's Drive from Padthaway in Australia
Juicy, value with 90 points from Robert Parker. Erskine suggests a bowl of chili or cheese enchiladas. I say make the chili semi-sweet and with some nice spice. or a nice juicy steak, like a filet au poivre or a plate of beef carpaccio, sopressata, and olives with toasted baguettes, and balsamic reduction.
Sidenote:
Staff Tasting tonight included a blind tasting of the easy-drinking Italian Pinot Grigio Volpe Pasini's Grivo from the Colli Orientalli del Fruili, meaning the eastern hills of Fruili, considered to be one of the best regions, Karen MacNeil might even call it the best area.
Disclaimer: I guessed wrong..lol..oh well, I'm not even close to be ready to jump on level 2 certification, expanding my French repertoire.
Followed by Ben Marco Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina and the Mauritson Dry Creek Zinfandel served with Steak Frites. Both are great reds for juicy, red steak frites in a red wine shallot reduction. That Malbec reminds of the Sabato, the latter was better but more expensive and the best glass on the wine by the glass (WBG) list at the time and more expensive than the current price of the Ben Marco (<$60). This would also go great with deconstructed PBJ sandwiches or loads of jam and a plateful of cheeses like a robiola (luxurious with La Tur), clothbound Cheddar, Roaring 40's, and Perla Gresia (aka Gray Pearl; Antonio Carpaneda, master “affinatore” of the Casearia creates this yummy Italian cheese from the Veneto, cow's milk, 90 days aging, studded with black truffles and with a cinnamon and ash rind).
Distinguished Napa Valley Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Zinfandel man, Mike Grgich, traced Zinfandel's roots to his native Croatia (you'll see a Croatian flag on all his labels), his researchhas been confirmed. The Mauritson Zinfandel was filled with jammy, borderline raisiny/pruny fruit and packed a punch without seeming hot. It's from the Dry Creek Valley so I'd judge it to be moderate in alcohol content compared to some other Zinfandels like the 2006 Four Vines Maverick. Delicious. I wonder about Croatian cheeses, I'd pair it with a creamy Brie di Nangis, "sticks" of Piave Vecchio, Istara's Ossau Iraty, Cacio di Bosco (Pecorino Tartufo), Humbolt Fog or Bijou melted underneath the salamander on a toasted baguette then slathered with jam.
2008 South African Sauvignon Blanc from Stellenbosch made by Mulderbosch
Acclaimed to be the standard for South African Sauvignon Blanc is a pretty big assertion, an agreeable standard, Right now, I'm thinking pan sear scallops (dusted in sugar, honey, butter), speck, citrus, and a plate studded with balsamic reduction for some toasted sourdough baguettes.
Newton's other Chardonnay, 2007 Red Label
A Wall Street Journal Top Pick, nicely balanced, buttery and oaky chardonnay with a nice creaminess, and small notes of acidity. Think butter poached lobster (I'd also go with a white Burgundy), polenta, coddled egg, and tempura bok choy (from the man at the heart of the house at SDLT Back Bay).
2007 White Riesling by Fenestra
Displays varietal character aromas like good Australian or Alsace rieslings, but not much on the palette. It'd be decent with a variety of foods, but not something to scream to the hills about, it's more about lubricating the company that you keep with these wines ;) Decent value for an evening sipper with a few indulgent snacks, close friends, and a show.
A 2007 Bonarda (aka Charbono) made by La Posta, from Mendoza
Charbono is a great steak wine, specifically if you're having a BBQ involving charcoal and beef or smoked baby back ribs rubbed in a sweet marinade involving lots of black peppercorn. It's the most widely planted grape in Argentina, but it follows in the shadow of Argentinian Malbecs, a major sales beacon not short in supply. Perfect for a night by the fire with dark chocolate, e.g. after aforementioned dinner above. Keep your eyes peeled for my review of and pairing with Robert Foley's Charbono.
2005 Gundlach Bundschu's (GunBun) Mountain Cuvee from Sonoma
Yummy. Bordeaux like with great fruit with a nice peppery punch of Syrah. Erskine suggests roast leg of lamb. Agreed with some carrots; bacon wrapped fingerlings and a sides of rosemary pomme frites and broccoli sauteed in garlic, soy sauce, and oyster sauce.
2007 Pillar Box Red Hendry's Drive from Padthaway in Australia
Juicy, value with 90 points from Robert Parker. Erskine suggests a bowl of chili or cheese enchiladas. I say make the chili semi-sweet and with some nice spice. or a nice juicy steak, like a filet au poivre or a plate of beef carpaccio, sopressata, and olives with toasted baguettes, and balsamic reduction.
Sidenote:
Staff Tasting tonight included a blind tasting of the easy-drinking Italian Pinot Grigio Volpe Pasini's Grivo from the Colli Orientalli del Fruili, meaning the eastern hills of Fruili, considered to be one of the best regions, Karen MacNeil might even call it the best area.
Disclaimer: I guessed wrong..lol..oh well, I'm not even close to be ready to jump on level 2 certification, expanding my French repertoire.
Followed by Ben Marco Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina and the Mauritson Dry Creek Zinfandel served with Steak Frites. Both are great reds for juicy, red steak frites in a red wine shallot reduction. That Malbec reminds of the Sabato, the latter was better but more expensive and the best glass on the wine by the glass (WBG) list at the time and more expensive than the current price of the Ben Marco (<$60). This would also go great with deconstructed PBJ sandwiches or loads of jam and a plateful of cheeses like a robiola (luxurious with La Tur), clothbound Cheddar, Roaring 40's, and Perla Gresia (aka Gray Pearl; Antonio Carpaneda, master “affinatore” of the Casearia creates this yummy Italian cheese from the Veneto, cow's milk, 90 days aging, studded with black truffles and with a cinnamon and ash rind).
Distinguished Napa Valley Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Zinfandel man, Mike Grgich, traced Zinfandel's roots to his native Croatia (you'll see a Croatian flag on all his labels), his researchhas been confirmed. The Mauritson Zinfandel was filled with jammy, borderline raisiny/pruny fruit and packed a punch without seeming hot. It's from the Dry Creek Valley so I'd judge it to be moderate in alcohol content compared to some other Zinfandels like the 2006 Four Vines Maverick. Delicious. I wonder about Croatian cheeses, I'd pair it with a creamy Brie di Nangis, "sticks" of Piave Vecchio, Istara's Ossau Iraty, Cacio di Bosco (Pecorino Tartufo), Humbolt Fog or Bijou melted underneath the salamander on a toasted baguette then slathered with jam.
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
2002 Shafer Relentless
I've always been a fan of Shafer wines. Back in the day at Hamiltons, I credit Shafer wines with my epiphany and what has become a well-paying job for me as a sommelier. I'd have to say it was a toss up between Shafer's Relentless and Firebreak, but what sealed the deal in 2005 was their Hillside Select. Now, on to the note for the 2002 Relentless.
Deep purple colors with minor fading on the edge. Dark fruits, meat, pepper, herbs (rosemary on 2nd day), subtle cedar aroma. Full-bodied and well-balanced with flavors of dark fruits (my mom tasted plums; sounds like her palette is developing nicely), pepper, and a creamy mid-palate texture followed by integrated tannins and a mild acidity.
When I opened the first bottle of this half-case awhile back (about 1 year ago) I thought it was at or near its peak. Now, I feel it can go a bit longer; I've got two bottles left.
Current vintage: 2006.
I recently tasted the 2005 Hillside Select and was thoroughly impressed. It's almost shameful to drink it so young, but it's seductive and extremely delicious. Too bad the Hillside Select mailing list is closed :(
Deep purple colors with minor fading on the edge. Dark fruits, meat, pepper, herbs (rosemary on 2nd day), subtle cedar aroma. Full-bodied and well-balanced with flavors of dark fruits (my mom tasted plums; sounds like her palette is developing nicely), pepper, and a creamy mid-palate texture followed by integrated tannins and a mild acidity.
When I opened the first bottle of this half-case awhile back (about 1 year ago) I thought it was at or near its peak. Now, I feel it can go a bit longer; I've got two bottles left.
Current vintage: 2006.
I recently tasted the 2005 Hillside Select and was thoroughly impressed. It's almost shameful to drink it so young, but it's seductive and extremely delicious. Too bad the Hillside Select mailing list is closed :(
Sunday, September 13, 2009
Belle Pente
Belle Pente (pronounced "bell pont", meaning "beautiful slope") makes several wines from vineyards throughout Oregon's Willamette Valley. I've had the pleasure of tasting 3 of them: 2007 Pinot Noir (Willamette), 2007 Pinot Gris, and 2006 "Belle Pente Vineyard" Pinot Noir.
The 2007 Pinot Noir is unfined and unfiltered and lighter in style for a typical pinot noir with bright garnet colors radiating through the cloudiness. Strong earthy aromas dominate upfront but as the wine opens, red fruit aromas emerge with a subtle spiciness across the nose. Great flavor.
The 2007 Pinot Gris comes from Yamhill County and undergoes long, cool fermentation in stainless steel, with an extended sur lie and exposure to neutral oak. Nice flavor.
The 2006 Belle Pente Vineyard Pinot Noir is from the Yamhill-Carlton District, planted in 1994. It's made with indigenous yeast and spends 18 months in French oak. It's full, rich, and complex with an excellent display of black fruit alongside a spicy characteristic, reminiscent of Burgundy, accompanied by earthy flavors.
ADDENDUM: For the Burg-hounds.
The 2007 Pinot Noir is unfined and unfiltered and lighter in style for a typical pinot noir with bright garnet colors radiating through the cloudiness. Strong earthy aromas dominate upfront but as the wine opens, red fruit aromas emerge with a subtle spiciness across the nose. Great flavor.
The 2007 Pinot Gris comes from Yamhill County and undergoes long, cool fermentation in stainless steel, with an extended sur lie and exposure to neutral oak. Nice flavor.
The 2006 Belle Pente Vineyard Pinot Noir is from the Yamhill-Carlton District, planted in 1994. It's made with indigenous yeast and spends 18 months in French oak. It's full, rich, and complex with an excellent display of black fruit alongside a spicy characteristic, reminiscent of Burgundy, accompanied by earthy flavors.
ADDENDUM: For the Burg-hounds.
Sunday, August 16, 2009
2004 Bell Sonnette
My first taste of this lovely wine occurred a couple months ago at a wine tasting with Anthony Bell at the Spirited Gourmet in Belmont (of Mitt Romney fame). There we tasted Bell's Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Claret, Cabernet Sauvignon--including his Clone 6, and Syrah. All were wonderful wines, I'd tasted the Claret on a previous occasion and enjoyed a bottle of his Cantebury Syrah awhile back. Reviewing the provided literature led me to ask about Sonnette--French for "bell"--the Bordeaux blend absent from the table.
After the tasting and having browsed the shelves of the Belmont store, I returned to the tasting table to the news that hidden beneath the table was a bottle of Sonnette. Upon tasting and having learned when the bottle was opened, I knew I had a winner (even though I'd already purchased a couple bottles of Clone 6).
Tonight, I give you the breakdown:
After the tasting and having browsed the shelves of the Belmont store, I returned to the tasting table to the news that hidden beneath the table was a bottle of Sonnette. Upon tasting and having learned when the bottle was opened, I knew I had a winner (even though I'd already purchased a couple bottles of Clone 6).
Tonight, I give you the breakdown:
The 2004 vintage is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from Oakville (14%), Rutherford (14%) and Carneros (14%); Merlot (25%) from the Spanos-Berberian vineyard surrounding the winery; Cabernet franc (12%) from Atlas Peak and Petit verdot (11%) from the Massa Ranch in Yountville. Aged 19 months in 69% French, 31% American, 86% new oak; bottled 2006, 200 cases madeReddish-purple in color with bright aromas of black and red fruit, it also smells hot with alcohol. Probably not the best wine to open up on a hot, humid day in the middle of August, nonetheless, still great. Great fruit flavors on the palate, nice acidity against a tannic structure that has softened with age. This is built for the long haul, how long I'll hold on to it is another question.
Sunday, August 2, 2009
2002 Clos Saron Heart of Stone
I've always been a fan of Rhone varietals and stumbling upon this 100% Syrah from the Sierra Nevada Foothills was a pleasant surprise. Grown on its original rootstock, these vines sit 2300 ft above sea level and yield a full-bodied, bio-dynamic red with just 13.2% alcohol.
Given that I bought this unfined and unfiltered wine today on a whim (even with the new 6.25% sales tax) at the Winchester Spirited Gourmet, it might have been wise to give it a day or two to rest.
With 7 years of age, the color is still a robust purple, with brick-colored edges and extremely long legs. The nose is filled with vibrant dark fruits and a pronounced spiciness, it almost smells hot with alcohol. This lead me to throw it in the fridge for a moment. After which, an elegant, integrated wine emerged; black and blue fruits, juicy acidity, smooth tannins, and subtle oak influences all dance together in splendid harmony.
There's two bottles left at the Spirited Gourmet in Winchester, MA. Grab them fast, or at least before I do.
Clos Saron's website.
Spirited Gourmet's website.
Given that I bought this unfined and unfiltered wine today on a whim (even with the new 6.25% sales tax) at the Winchester Spirited Gourmet, it might have been wise to give it a day or two to rest.
With 7 years of age, the color is still a robust purple, with brick-colored edges and extremely long legs. The nose is filled with vibrant dark fruits and a pronounced spiciness, it almost smells hot with alcohol. This lead me to throw it in the fridge for a moment. After which, an elegant, integrated wine emerged; black and blue fruits, juicy acidity, smooth tannins, and subtle oak influences all dance together in splendid harmony.
There's two bottles left at the Spirited Gourmet in Winchester, MA. Grab them fast, or at least before I do.
Clos Saron's website.
Spirited Gourmet's website.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
2005 Two Hands Ares
Dark purple with black pepper, black berry, tar, black raspberry, black cherry and an aroma of vanilla. Wow.
ADDENDUM: While dining at the Boston Morton's in the Seaport District. The 2002 Darioush Shiraz followed later than evening along with some Mickey D's. I paired the Darioush with BBQ sauce and chicken nuggest. Following that was 2006 Two Hands Bella's Garden. Fun night, thanks P and Jill Feeney for the outstanding service.
There's also a funny story from that night of a blind tasting with my mother, cousin, yours truly, Morton's AGM Scott Platt, and burgundy cooking wine.
ADDENDUM: While dining at the Boston Morton's in the Seaport District. The 2002 Darioush Shiraz followed later than evening along with some Mickey D's. I paired the Darioush with BBQ sauce and chicken nuggest. Following that was 2006 Two Hands Bella's Garden. Fun night, thanks P and Jill Feeney for the outstanding service.
There's also a funny story from that night of a blind tasting with my mother, cousin, yours truly, Morton's AGM Scott Platt, and burgundy cooking wine.
Monday, June 22, 2009
2006 Four Vines Maverick Zinfandel
I bought this after upon seeing a Four Vines bottling without a screw top, e.g. Stelvin closure (Here's one example of a winery using them, and then there's Plumpjack or the Rhone Rangers' Bonny Doon (Flash required).
This is a 14.9% fruit bomb from Amador County filled with bright and jammy fruit, leather, and black pepper.
Think steak au poivre or for cheese: a creamy robiola like La Tur, Pecorino Toscano, Blue Ledge Farm's Lake's Edge or Cypress Grove's Humbolt Fog, Jasper Hill Farm's Bayley Hazen or their clothbound cheddar, and King's Island Dairy's Roaring 40's blue.
This is a 14.9% fruit bomb from Amador County filled with bright and jammy fruit, leather, and black pepper.
Think steak au poivre or for cheese: a creamy robiola like La Tur, Pecorino Toscano, Blue Ledge Farm's Lake's Edge or Cypress Grove's Humbolt Fog, Jasper Hill Farm's Bayley Hazen or their clothbound cheddar, and King's Island Dairy's Roaring 40's blue.
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Burgundy wine tasting
White
2007 Marc Morey Bourgogne Aligote: Aligote, the other white grape of Burgundy, rarely has contact with oak, this yields a clean, fresh, and crisp wine with bright citrus and a tangy finish.
2006 Gueguen Petit Chablis: Limited contact with oak allows the fruit and minerality to show.
2007 Larochette-Manciat Macon: Displays a clarity of fruit and minerality.
Red
2007 Roux Pere Bourgogne: Nice acidity and show of fruit for an entry-level red Burgundy.
2005 Brintet Mercurey Veilles Vignes: Old vines located in the village of Mercurey within the Cote Chalonnaise produce a wine that shows earthy flavors and red fruit, particularly cherries.
2005 Chateau de Chorey Chorey-les-Beaune: Sourced from vineyards in the shadow of the great hill of Corton in the Cote de Beaune, this is nicely polished, a fairly dense and earthy wine balanced by nice acidity and subtle red and blue fruit.
2005 Lamy Santenay Clos des Hates: As a Santenay, I was expecting something more rustic but found this to be more fruit-forward than the Chorey. Still nice, with a silky, round feeling with a touch of acidity compared with the red.
2007 Marc Morey Bourgogne Aligote: Aligote, the other white grape of Burgundy, rarely has contact with oak, this yields a clean, fresh, and crisp wine with bright citrus and a tangy finish.
2006 Gueguen Petit Chablis: Limited contact with oak allows the fruit and minerality to show.
2007 Larochette-Manciat Macon: Displays a clarity of fruit and minerality.
Red
2007 Roux Pere Bourgogne: Nice acidity and show of fruit for an entry-level red Burgundy.
2005 Brintet Mercurey Veilles Vignes: Old vines located in the village of Mercurey within the Cote Chalonnaise produce a wine that shows earthy flavors and red fruit, particularly cherries.
2005 Chateau de Chorey Chorey-les-Beaune: Sourced from vineyards in the shadow of the great hill of Corton in the Cote de Beaune, this is nicely polished, a fairly dense and earthy wine balanced by nice acidity and subtle red and blue fruit.
2005 Lamy Santenay Clos des Hates: As a Santenay, I was expecting something more rustic but found this to be more fruit-forward than the Chorey. Still nice, with a silky, round feeling with a touch of acidity compared with the red.
Sunday, April 5, 2009
1999 Francis Coppola Director's Reserve Merlot
Upon visiting a colleague's home the other night, he surprised the group with this bottle of wine, but without the means to open it. Fortunately for all of us, I always seem to carry a corkscrew or have access to one...weird I know. Upon opening, the softness of the entire cork was of some concern which quickly dissipated as my olfactory senses picked up the aromas of red berries, eventually leading my mind to believe almost as if there were dark chocolate-covered cherries right in the bottle. On the palate its fleshy, fruit-forward characteristics surprised me for a wine with 10 years of age and led me to believe it was quite the fruit bomb in its youth. However, the noticeable presence of tannins--although fairly well integrated--suggest the wine had the capability to age even longer. Grade: B+
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
2005 Gaja Sito Moresco
Sito Moresco is but one of many Barbaresco vineyards that provides the grapes for this Piedmont red. While some consider this to be an introductory Gaja wine, it certainly has a powerful, yet graceful nature with gorgeous aromas of vanilla, black and blue fruits, spice, and leather. The flavors follow the aromas; it's all there.
Gaja's single vineyard Barbarescos are phenomenal; my favorite: the 1997 Langhe Sorì San Lorenzo, Sorì means "hill" and San Lorenzo is the patron saint of Alba.
Sito Moresco is Gaja's Piedmont baby, an unusual blend of nebbiolo, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot. Gaja is known for his unusual ways: he opted out of DOCG status in 1996 by blending barbera into his some of his Barbarescos, he made two extraordinary chardonnays and a cabernet sauvignon which he contends was made to bring international attention to nebbiolo, dabbled with Brunello di Montalcino with his 1997 single vineyard Sugarille from his winery--Pieve S. Restituta, and founded Ca'Marcanda in Bolgheri, due south of Sassicaia and Ornellaia, which makes some of the most provocative, yet affordable blends in Bolgheri, I've had the Promis and also the Magari, but have yet to try the proprietary Ca'Marcanda.
When asked to describe Nebbiolo, Gaja responded
Gaja's single vineyard Barbarescos are phenomenal; my favorite: the 1997 Langhe Sorì San Lorenzo, Sorì means "hill" and San Lorenzo is the patron saint of Alba.
Sito Moresco is Gaja's Piedmont baby, an unusual blend of nebbiolo, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot. Gaja is known for his unusual ways: he opted out of DOCG status in 1996 by blending barbera into his some of his Barbarescos, he made two extraordinary chardonnays and a cabernet sauvignon which he contends was made to bring international attention to nebbiolo, dabbled with Brunello di Montalcino with his 1997 single vineyard Sugarille from his winery--Pieve S. Restituta, and founded Ca'Marcanda in Bolgheri, due south of Sassicaia and Ornellaia, which makes some of the most provocative, yet affordable blends in Bolgheri, I've had the Promis and also the Magari, but have yet to try the proprietary Ca'Marcanda.
When asked to describe Nebbiolo, Gaja responded
Cabernet is to John Wayne, what Nebbiolo is to Marcello Mastroianni. John Wayne is a strong personality. He speaks in a loud voice. Marcello Mastroianni would never be in the center of a room. He is shy. He is a closed book. And women become beautiful beside him. This is the beauty of Nebbiolo.
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