Sunday, October 25, 2009

2001 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

Brunello--the Sangiovese clone know as Sangiovese Gross--is responsible for many awesome wines coming from Montalcino, gets its name from the brownish hue of the grape when it's ripe. There are three distinct areas in Montalcino, each of which produces a particular style. Generally speaking, from one of my reading sources, brunellos are big, rich, powerful and firm, exhibiting a peppery, almost spicy characteristic, along with tea, cinnamon, and fig.

Montalcino is divided into three major regions: the sunbaked southwest that produces big and rich wines, the northeast-facing scarp slope yields the elegant wines, and the firmest come from the sheltered southeast slope which is home to the pioneering Biondi-Santi.

Compared to my last review of this wine, I've come a long way and so has this 95-pointer from the classic 2001 vintage, which according to Wine Spectator, I opened too early. I rationalize it as research on how it's developed 18 months later.

Beautifully aromatic with aromas of dried citrus, culminating with red fruits, particularly with dark cherries dominating, followed by earth, leather and a touch of creamy vanilla and wood. On the palate, it exhibits a nice profile of red fruits intermixed with just the slightest touch of acidity and firm, yet subtle tannins that lead to a persistently dry finish.

Enjoyed alongside a nice medium rare New York Strip. As for cheese, I'm thinking Piave Vechio, Parmesan Reggiano, tallegio, perla gresia, cacio di bosco.

Second day: garnet-brick colors with more pronounced leather aromas, soft red fruit flavors on the palette, low acidity, dry finish.

Where to find it? One possibility D&L Liquors in Waltham and also in Woburn (~$70). I know Deluca's on Newbury St and Fairfield St carries Capanna wines, but not the 2001 Riserva.

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