Foie gras

Salon cuts through the hype over foie gras.

I love Hudson Valley foie gras turned into a torchon, I love it on top of a SDLT burger, my suggestion for a SDLT burger with foie gras torchon was featured in Boston Magazine's Best of Boston award write-up for SDLT's bar menu, the behemoth was noted by Boston Magazine editors to be

positively gut-busting.

More importantly, here's a much more enlightening quote, specifically from Izzy Yanay, owner of Hudson Valley foie gras,

The foie gras could be delicious, but if it's being produced with the torture of animals, it should not be produced. It should be banned, and I'll be the first one to close the farm if the duck would not be comfortable.

Try pairing foie gras in its many forms with a Sauternes, Alsace Riesling or Guwerztraminer (especially SGNs & VTs), Samos Muscat, or better yet, Shadow Canyon's late harvested, botrytized Pinot Blanc known as Paeonia. Paeonia is stellar, viscous, well-balanced, complex, and utterly delicious; the current vintage is 2004 and it comes from the Bien Nacido Vineyard, home to some fabulous Syrahs and also white Rhone varietals like Roussanne.

1997 Kalin Cellars Sauvignon Blanc

Found this beauty at Eastern Standard (ESK) for around $50 after attending Sommelier Smackdown where Kate Moore of L'Espalier took the crown from Todd Lipman of Bin 26 Enoteca as they dueled it out to pair 4 wines to the theme of Breakfast for Dinner.

Deep golden color, subtle fruit, traces of sweetness, low acidity, nice creamy'ish mouthfeel, long finish.

1995 Guenoc Reserve Beckstoffer IV Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

At age 13, you could smell and taste the loamy currant, hints of cedar, well-integrated tannins coat the mouth, all of this leaves me wanting a bit more. This pales in comparison to the other wine of the night (see below).

ADDDENDUM: You can't see below because this blog has been imported and this post was retrieved from my archives: 10/3/08). The other wine of the night: 2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia. We had both these wines with porterhouses and I think sauteed spinach, peppers, and other vegetables along with baguettes. Good night. Thanks P.

On Steaks (Jean Luc Colombo)

Just thinking back to my earlier post, steaks are so easy to pair with red wines that you've tasted before. Think back to what the wine tasted like and then season your steaks accordingly.

Example, I'm thinking of Syrah. One by made by the man who said this:

Cornas is part of the Northern Rhône hillsides, which is where Syrah comes from, and where Syrah gives its greatest expression. At the same time, the hills of Cornas benefit from Mediterranean influences, which bring a lot of character to the wine.

Cornas' hero, and non-traditionalist (supscription required?) Jean Luc Colombo's Les Farot Syrah, 2006 Côtes du Rhône. It's 100 % Syrah, yummy with spice, juicy, with a nice earthiness accompanying a grip of fruit and nicely balanced tannins. His "non-traditional" ways: French oak, destemming, and green harvests.

Here's what I do with the steak: rosemary, some garlic (completely optional), olive oil, and cook to R- (rare minus) by special cooking method not permitted in restaurants per health regulations. Then sear the steaks under some fire after seasoning with sea salt, fresh cracked black peppercorn, fresh rosemary, thyme. Think garrigue when seasoning.

Sidenote:

Speaking of steak wines, Wine Spectator's Sam Gugino talks about Wagyu Skirt (skirt steaks are one of the butcher's cut (like hangar steak) and red wines like a California meritage, Super Tuscan, Aussie Shiraz (Mollydooker's $90 Carnival of Love), and an Argentinian Malbec. Mollydooker, with 95 pts, was the only one to receive a plug because it was deemed WS worthy. Don't get me wrong, it's a great wine, in the same level as this.

Beckstoffer grapes are on James Laube's newest hot list of California Cabernets and understandably so. My last Beckstoffer encounters were through several wines by Anthony Bell's Bell Wine Cellars, and a 1995 Guenoc Beckstoffer IV from over a year ago.

Facebook plug to Bell Wine Cellars and a bravo to Anthony Bell for the 2004 Sonnette! I'm looking forward to reviewing his Clone 6 Cabernet Sauvignon.

Spirited Gourmet, Winchester, MA

Erskine poured, I drank, spit some, and took notes each of which is followed by my at the moment wine pairing with each:

2008 South African Sauvignon Blanc from Stellenbosch made by Mulderbosch
Acclaimed to be the standard for South African Sauvignon Blanc is a pretty big assertion, an agreeable standard, Right now, I'm thinking pan sear scallops (dusted in sugar, honey, butter), speck, citrus, and a plate studded with balsamic reduction for some toasted sourdough baguettes.

Newton's other Chardonnay, 2007 Red Label
A Wall Street Journal Top Pick, nicely balanced, buttery and oaky chardonnay with a nice creaminess, and small notes of acidity. Think butter poached lobster (I'd also go with a white Burgundy), polenta, coddled egg, and tempura bok choy (from the man at the heart of the house at SDLT Back Bay).

2007 White Riesling by Fenestra
Displays varietal character aromas like good Australian or Alsace rieslings, but not much on the palette. It'd be decent with a variety of foods, but not something to scream to the hills about, it's more about lubricating the company that you keep with these wines ;) Decent value for an evening sipper with a few indulgent snacks, close friends, and a show.

A 2007 Bonarda (aka Charbono) made by La Posta, from Mendoza
Charbono is a great steak wine, specifically if you're having a BBQ involving charcoal and beef or smoked baby back ribs rubbed in a sweet marinade involving lots of black peppercorn. It's the most widely planted grape in Argentina, but it follows in the shadow of Argentinian Malbecs, a major sales beacon not short in supply. Perfect for a night by the fire with dark chocolate, e.g. after aforementioned dinner above. Keep your eyes peeled for my review of and pairing with Robert Foley's Charbono.

2005 Gundlach Bundschu's (GunBun) Mountain Cuvee from Sonoma
Yummy. Bordeaux like with great fruit with a nice peppery punch of Syrah. Erskine suggests roast leg of lamb. Agreed with some carrots; bacon wrapped fingerlings and a sides of rosemary pomme frites and broccoli sauteed in garlic, soy sauce, and oyster sauce.

2007 Pillar Box Red Hendry's Drive from Padthaway in Australia
Juicy, value with 90 points from Robert Parker. Erskine suggests a bowl of chili or cheese enchiladas. I say make the chili semi-sweet and with some nice spice. or a nice juicy steak, like a filet au poivre or a plate of beef carpaccio, sopressata, and olives with toasted baguettes, and balsamic reduction.

Sidenote:
Staff Tasting tonight included a blind tasting of the easy-drinking Italian Pinot Grigio Volpe Pasini's Grivo from the Colli Orientalli del Fruili, meaning the eastern hills of Fruili, considered to be one of the best regions, Karen MacNeil might even call it the best area.

Disclaimer: I guessed wrong..lol..oh well, I'm not even close to be ready to jump on level 2 certification, expanding my French repertoire.

Followed by Ben Marco Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina and the Mauritson Dry Creek Zinfandel served with Steak Frites. Both are great reds for juicy, red steak frites in a red wine shallot reduction. That Malbec reminds of the Sabato, the latter was better but more expensive and the best glass on the wine by the glass (WBG) list at the time and more expensive than the current price of the Ben Marco (<$60). This would also go great with deconstructed PBJ sandwiches or loads of jam and a plateful of cheeses like a robiola (luxurious with La Tur), clothbound Cheddar, Roaring 40's, and Perla Gresia (aka Gray Pearl; Antonio Carpaneda, master “affinatore” of the Casearia creates this yummy Italian cheese from the Veneto, cow's milk, 90 days aging, studded with black truffles and with a cinnamon and ash rind).

Distinguished Napa Valley Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Zinfandel man, Mike Grgich, traced Zinfandel's roots to his native Croatia (you'll see a Croatian flag on all his labels), his researchhas been confirmed. The Mauritson Zinfandel was filled with jammy, borderline raisiny/pruny fruit and packed a punch without seeming hot. It's from the Dry Creek Valley so I'd judge it to be moderate in alcohol content compared to some other Zinfandels like the 2006 Four Vines Maverick. Delicious. I wonder about Croatian cheeses, I'd pair it with a creamy Brie di Nangis, "sticks" of Piave Vecchio, Istara's Ossau Iraty, Cacio di Bosco (Pecorino Tartufo), Humbolt Fog or Bijou melted underneath the salamander on a toasted baguette then slathered with jam.

2002 Shafer Relentless

I've always been a fan of Shafer wines. Back in the day at Hamiltons, I credit Shafer wines with my epiphany and what has become a well-paying job for me as a sommelier. I'd have to say it was a toss up between Shafer's Relentless and Firebreak, but what sealed the deal in 2005 was their Hillside Select. Now, on to the note for the 2002 Relentless.

Deep purple colors with minor fading on the edge. Dark fruits, meat, pepper, herbs (rosemary on 2nd day), subtle cedar aroma. Full-bodied and well-balanced with flavors of dark fruits (my mom tasted plums; sounds like her palette is developing nicely), pepper, and a creamy mid-palate texture followed by integrated tannins and a mild acidity.

When I opened the first bottle of this half-case awhile back (about 1 year ago) I thought it was at or near its peak. Now, I feel it can go a bit longer; I've got two bottles left.

Current vintage: 2006.

I recently tasted the 2005 Hillside Select and was thoroughly impressed. It's almost shameful to drink it so young, but it's seductive and extremely delicious. Too bad the Hillside Select mailing list is closed :(

Belle Pente

Belle Pente (pronounced "bell pont", meaning "beautiful slope") makes several wines from vineyards throughout Oregon's Willamette Valley. I've had the pleasure of tasting 3 of them: 2007 Pinot Noir (Willamette), 2007 Pinot Gris, and 2006 "Belle Pente Vineyard" Pinot Noir.

The 2007 Pinot Noir is unfined and unfiltered and lighter in style for a typical pinot noir with bright garnet colors radiating through the cloudiness. Strong earthy aromas dominate upfront but as the wine opens, red fruit aromas emerge with a subtle spiciness across the nose. Great flavor.

The 2007 Pinot Gris comes from Yamhill County and undergoes long, cool fermentation in stainless steel, with an extended sur lie and exposure to neutral oak. Nice flavor.

The 2006 Belle Pente Vineyard Pinot Noir is from the Yamhill-Carlton District, planted in 1994. It's made with indigenous yeast and spends 18 months in French oak. It's full, rich, and complex with an excellent display of black fruit alongside a spicy characteristic, reminiscent of Burgundy, accompanied by earthy flavors.

ADDENDUM: For the Burg-hounds.