Petit Syrah

The first winery I ever visited was Concannon Vineyards in the Livermore Valley, I was a senior in high school on a science trip to San Francisco and the surrounding areas. A beautiful, memorable trip. While checking out the website linked in my prior post (below), I came across an interesting blog post with the title P.S. I love you, keep in mind, this is all while trying to decide whether to consider linking to the site.

Obviously the movie came to mind and I clicked through with a bit of intrigue. Hence the topic of this post. Petit Syrah is a wonderful grape varietal, I've tasted several, but never recorded anything on them. I promise to share experiences with them at a later date, in the meantime, check out my review of Shafer's Syrah, Petit Syrah blend: Relentless. However, I will leave you with one particular Petite Syrah with an almost cult-like following: Stags' Leap Winery.

Courtney Cochran tells us a bit about the varietal and makes some recommendations:

Grown in France under a synonym, Durif, Petite Sirah really comes into its own in California, where plantings are on the rise. Stylistically, Petite Sirah is the vinous equivalent of comfort food: warm, hearty and perfectly suited to cold weather. Watch for the grape's signature notes of jammy black fruits, espresso, charcoal and black pepper in these selections; prices are approximate.
Bogle Petite Sirah, California, $9
Lava Cap Granite Hill Petite Sirah, Sierra Foothills, $25
Michael-David Winery Earthquake Petite Sirah, Lodi, $25

I agree with the Bogle suggestion, have yet to try those other two but certainly the place to grow them would be the Sierra Foothills and Lodi. I'm thinking Clos Saron's Black Pearl. Speaking of Clos Saron, anyone ever have one of their Pinot Noirs?

P.S. Yes I know there's different spellings and I've chosen one not in sync with what Courtney writes, you may disagree, but I'm sticking to it.

P.S. I love you =)

2001 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

Brunello--the Sangiovese clone know as Sangiovese Gross--is responsible for many awesome wines coming from Montalcino, gets its name from the brownish hue of the grape when it's ripe. There are three distinct areas in Montalcino, each of which produces a particular style. Generally speaking, from one of my reading sources, brunellos are big, rich, powerful and firm, exhibiting a peppery, almost spicy characteristic, along with tea, cinnamon, and fig.

Montalcino is divided into three major regions: the sunbaked southwest that produces big and rich wines, the northeast-facing scarp slope yields the elegant wines, and the firmest come from the sheltered southeast slope which is home to the pioneering Biondi-Santi.

Compared to my last review of this wine, I've come a long way and so has this 95-pointer from the classic 2001 vintage, which according to Wine Spectator, I opened too early. I rationalize it as research on how it's developed 18 months later.

Beautifully aromatic with aromas of dried citrus, culminating with red fruits, particularly with dark cherries dominating, followed by earth, leather and a touch of creamy vanilla and wood. On the palate, it exhibits a nice profile of red fruits intermixed with just the slightest touch of acidity and firm, yet subtle tannins that lead to a persistently dry finish.

Enjoyed alongside a nice medium rare New York Strip. As for cheese, I'm thinking Piave Vechio, Parmesan Reggiano, tallegio, perla gresia, cacio di bosco.

Second day: garnet-brick colors with more pronounced leather aromas, soft red fruit flavors on the palette, low acidity, dry finish.

Where to find it? One possibility D&L Liquors in Waltham and also in Woburn (~$70). I know Deluca's on Newbury St and Fairfield St carries Capanna wines, but not the 2001 Riserva.

2005 Denuño Jumilla, Spain

I worked an event for the New England Culinary Guild at the Commander's Mansion in Watertown. There I met a member of the family behind BLM Wine and Spirits. We poured several wines, unfortunately I only really tasted two of the wines, both red, enough to develop the opinion; the others were a Pinot Gris, a Prosecco, and a Kerner.

2005 Denuño: Jumilla, ESP
This exciting blend of 90% Petit Verdot, 5% Monastrell, and 5% Syrah with 13.5% alcohol, 6 months of barrel aging juice is delicious. I was speaking with John, host of a radio talk show on food and wine, about the varietal characters of Petit Verdot and how this was the most petit verdot I had ever had in a wine and hence the closest thing I've gotten to experiencing its pure varietal characteral s demonstrated in Heitz's 100% Petit Verdot, which also, surprisingly enough, has 13.5% alcohol.

The Winemaker calls wild berries, spice, and toasted oak. I wrote, garnet to ruby colors on the fringe, with creamy sort of dark fruit (black & red), spice, and a slight touch of an earthy element. A bit restrained when first opened. Soft tannins, low acidity, and a nice finish round out this easy-drinker. Decant.

Many people asked about how much I thought this wine would cost in the store. I reasoned it'll be no more than $15, but I'm curious to find out. Also, one particularly lovely lady ;) asked about the wine's with the most reservatrol in the same line as pinot noir. For the record, Tannat comes from the Madiran and has been suggested to me to have the most reservatrol.

Stay tuned for more on Pinot Noir, and for the lovely lady who requested a list of affordable Pinot Noirs, one will follow shortly.

The other red was a Mendocino Barbera that was deliciously plush with red fruit with some zippy acidity and mild tannins (IMO, tannins + meatless pizzas = bad), I instantly thought back to sharing many Regina's margarita pizzas with medium basil and crispy crust with many bottles of Barbera d'Asti and Barbera d'Alba.

Shameless plug to somewhere else related to wine: A perfectly affordable case of wine.

2006 Gaja Sito Moresco & Ca'Marcanda Blanc?

Garnet red with shades of light pink at its furthest edge. Wonderful aromas of black and red fruits, roses, subtle spiciness, leather, and dark chocolate; a very aromatic, well balanced wine with fine, integrated tannins with just a touch of acidity and a long finish.

This wine is being enjoyed alongside Chinese watercress sauteed with garlic and a pork stir fry with mushrooms and peppers heaped atop a mound of white rice. I'd also pair this wine with hearty fare: steak, duck, pork, short ribs, pizza with mozzarella and basil, and most anything with white or black truffles. As for cheese, Perla Gresia, Cacio di Bosco (sheep), robiola, La Tur, Tallegio, Piave Vecchio.

My review of the 2005 Sito Moresco is here. Two bottles left of the 2006, to be drank sooner than later, probably over the next year.

Side note: Gaia Gaja writes about Ca'Marcanda's 2009 harvest and their experimentation with white varietals in Wine Spectator.

I like the strong experimental nature of Ca'Marcanda. Since the winery is quite young, with the first vines planted in 1996, we give total freedom to all sorts of experiments, such as planting white grapes, green harvest and trimming, and different methods of vine training (such as Guyot and Cordone Speronato). Each parcel that has been treated differently is kept separate for micro-fermentation and aging. Our experimental wines currently are sold in bulk.
[...]
At Ca' Marcanda, there are two distinct soil types, terre bianche (white soils), composed mainly of clay and limestone, and terre brune (dark soils), which contain less limestone. The grapes from the darker soil taste fruitier, sweeter and more delicate, with softer tannins. Grapes grown in the lighter soil have intense flavor, bigger tannins and a notable structure that differentiates those for the Camarcanda (terre bianche) from those for the Promis (terre brune) bottling.

Foie gras

Salon cuts through the hype over foie gras.

I love Hudson Valley foie gras turned into a torchon, I love it on top of a SDLT burger, my suggestion for a SDLT burger with foie gras torchon was featured in Boston Magazine's Best of Boston award write-up for SDLT's bar menu, the behemoth was noted by Boston Magazine editors to be

positively gut-busting.

More importantly, here's a much more enlightening quote, specifically from Izzy Yanay, owner of Hudson Valley foie gras,

The foie gras could be delicious, but if it's being produced with the torture of animals, it should not be produced. It should be banned, and I'll be the first one to close the farm if the duck would not be comfortable.

Try pairing foie gras in its many forms with a Sauternes, Alsace Riesling or Guwerztraminer (especially SGNs & VTs), Samos Muscat, or better yet, Shadow Canyon's late harvested, botrytized Pinot Blanc known as Paeonia. Paeonia is stellar, viscous, well-balanced, complex, and utterly delicious; the current vintage is 2004 and it comes from the Bien Nacido Vineyard, home to some fabulous Syrahs and also white Rhone varietals like Roussanne.

On Steaks (Jean Luc Colombo)

Just thinking back to my earlier post, steaks are so easy to pair with red wines that you've tasted before. Think back to what the wine tasted like and then season your steaks accordingly.

Example, I'm thinking of Syrah. One by made by the man who said this:

Cornas is part of the Northern Rhône hillsides, which is where Syrah comes from, and where Syrah gives its greatest expression. At the same time, the hills of Cornas benefit from Mediterranean influences, which bring a lot of character to the wine.

Cornas' hero, and non-traditionalist (supscription required?) Jean Luc Colombo's Les Farot Syrah, 2006 Côtes du Rhône. It's 100 % Syrah, yummy with spice, juicy, with a nice earthiness accompanying a grip of fruit and nicely balanced tannins. His "non-traditional" ways: French oak, destemming, and green harvests.

Here's what I do with the steak: rosemary, some garlic (completely optional), olive oil, and cook to R- (rare minus) by special cooking method not permitted in restaurants per health regulations. Then sear the steaks under some fire after seasoning with sea salt, fresh cracked black peppercorn, fresh rosemary, thyme. Think garrigue when seasoning.

Sidenote:

Speaking of steak wines, Wine Spectator's Sam Gugino talks about Wagyu Skirt (skirt steaks are one of the butcher's cut (like hangar steak) and red wines like a California meritage, Super Tuscan, Aussie Shiraz (Mollydooker's $90 Carnival of Love), and an Argentinian Malbec. Mollydooker, with 95 pts, was the only one to receive a plug because it was deemed WS worthy. Don't get me wrong, it's a great wine, in the same level as this.

Beckstoffer grapes are on James Laube's newest hot list of California Cabernets and understandably so. My last Beckstoffer encounters were through several wines by Anthony Bell's Bell Wine Cellars, and a 1995 Guenoc Beckstoffer IV from over a year ago.

Facebook plug to Bell Wine Cellars and a bravo to Anthony Bell for the 2004 Sonnette! I'm looking forward to reviewing his Clone 6 Cabernet Sauvignon.

Spirited Gourmet, Winchester, MA

Erskine poured, I drank, spit some, and took notes each of which is followed by my at the moment wine pairing with each:

2008 South African Sauvignon Blanc from Stellenbosch made by Mulderbosch
Acclaimed to be the standard for South African Sauvignon Blanc is a pretty big assertion, an agreeable standard, Right now, I'm thinking pan sear scallops (dusted in sugar, honey, butter), speck, citrus, and a plate studded with balsamic reduction for some toasted sourdough baguettes.

Newton's other Chardonnay, 2007 Red Label
A Wall Street Journal Top Pick, nicely balanced, buttery and oaky chardonnay with a nice creaminess, and small notes of acidity. Think butter poached lobster (I'd also go with a white Burgundy), polenta, coddled egg, and tempura bok choy (from the man at the heart of the house at SDLT Back Bay).

2007 White Riesling by Fenestra
Displays varietal character aromas like good Australian or Alsace rieslings, but not much on the palette. It'd be decent with a variety of foods, but not something to scream to the hills about, it's more about lubricating the company that you keep with these wines ;) Decent value for an evening sipper with a few indulgent snacks, close friends, and a show.

A 2007 Bonarda (aka Charbono) made by La Posta, from Mendoza
Charbono is a great steak wine, specifically if you're having a BBQ involving charcoal and beef or smoked baby back ribs rubbed in a sweet marinade involving lots of black peppercorn. It's the most widely planted grape in Argentina, but it follows in the shadow of Argentinian Malbecs, a major sales beacon not short in supply. Perfect for a night by the fire with dark chocolate, e.g. after aforementioned dinner above. Keep your eyes peeled for my review of and pairing with Robert Foley's Charbono.

2005 Gundlach Bundschu's (GunBun) Mountain Cuvee from Sonoma
Yummy. Bordeaux like with great fruit with a nice peppery punch of Syrah. Erskine suggests roast leg of lamb. Agreed with some carrots; bacon wrapped fingerlings and a sides of rosemary pomme frites and broccoli sauteed in garlic, soy sauce, and oyster sauce.

2007 Pillar Box Red Hendry's Drive from Padthaway in Australia
Juicy, value with 90 points from Robert Parker. Erskine suggests a bowl of chili or cheese enchiladas. I say make the chili semi-sweet and with some nice spice. or a nice juicy steak, like a filet au poivre or a plate of beef carpaccio, sopressata, and olives with toasted baguettes, and balsamic reduction.

Sidenote:
Staff Tasting tonight included a blind tasting of the easy-drinking Italian Pinot Grigio Volpe Pasini's Grivo from the Colli Orientalli del Fruili, meaning the eastern hills of Fruili, considered to be one of the best regions, Karen MacNeil might even call it the best area.

Disclaimer: I guessed wrong..lol..oh well, I'm not even close to be ready to jump on level 2 certification, expanding my French repertoire.

Followed by Ben Marco Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina and the Mauritson Dry Creek Zinfandel served with Steak Frites. Both are great reds for juicy, red steak frites in a red wine shallot reduction. That Malbec reminds of the Sabato, the latter was better but more expensive and the best glass on the wine by the glass (WBG) list at the time and more expensive than the current price of the Ben Marco (<$60). This would also go great with deconstructed PBJ sandwiches or loads of jam and a plateful of cheeses like a robiola (luxurious with La Tur), clothbound Cheddar, Roaring 40's, and Perla Gresia (aka Gray Pearl; Antonio Carpaneda, master “affinatore” of the Casearia creates this yummy Italian cheese from the Veneto, cow's milk, 90 days aging, studded with black truffles and with a cinnamon and ash rind).

Distinguished Napa Valley Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Zinfandel man, Mike Grgich, traced Zinfandel's roots to his native Croatia (you'll see a Croatian flag on all his labels), his researchhas been confirmed. The Mauritson Zinfandel was filled with jammy, borderline raisiny/pruny fruit and packed a punch without seeming hot. It's from the Dry Creek Valley so I'd judge it to be moderate in alcohol content compared to some other Zinfandels like the 2006 Four Vines Maverick. Delicious. I wonder about Croatian cheeses, I'd pair it with a creamy Brie di Nangis, "sticks" of Piave Vecchio, Istara's Ossau Iraty, Cacio di Bosco (Pecorino Tartufo), Humbolt Fog or Bijou melted underneath the salamander on a toasted baguette then slathered with jam.