MA Cork Dork

2006 Chateau Rayas La Pialade Cotes du Rhone

2012-01-03T20:29:00.000-05:00

I stumbled across this at Bauer Wine and Spirits, it was the last bottle and there was a hand-written shelf-talker stating that it was "peaking". Add to this situation the producer and I knew I had a bottle for the evening. As it turns out, this was a wonderful find. It's some seriously good juice with deft aromas of fruit, spices, intermixed with earthy elements; even lavender-like, aromas on the second pass. Superb on the palate: light-bodied, well-balanced; nice acidity, depth, and finish. A grown-up, seductive Cotes du Rhone and a display of the pedigree one can expect from such an esteemed producer.

The holidays are approaching

2010-11-25T01:11:00.000-05:00

Are you ready to truly connect with those who help you out on a daily basis this holiday season? Thank them for all that they do in a way that makes both of you look good.

“Wine is one of the few presents that makes both the giver and the receiver look good. You look like you spent a bundle on the gift (even if you didn’t) and the recipients are happy that you think they know something about wine (even if they don’t).” says Natalie MacLean, author of the bestseller Red, White and Drunk All Over.

Here's an exclusive generalized segment for you, beloved reader. If you'd like specific suggestions, please go here. Natalie's Top 10 great wine gift ideas (my suggestions are in bold):

1. Hairdresser: For the person who combines humor and optimism every time she styles your mop. Go for a light, gulpable wine like a dry rosé. It’s versatile and fuss-free—a great quaff for your coif. 2009 Château d'Aqueria

2. Psychiatrist: Of course, he’ll analyze whatever you give him so choose a wine that’s all about balance. Easy-drinking pinot noir is medium-bodied yet packed with flavor. Surprise him with a large-format bottle, like a magnum. Big thinking means big progress for you. This wine also works for psychologists, marriage counselors and bartenders. Penner Ash or Shea Wine Cellars

3. The Boss: Pick too pricey a wine and your boss will think your last raise was too much; go cheap, and she’ll think you lack judgment. Focus on a label with a lot of white space since that makes the bottle look more expensive. A castle in the distance also works, but avoid fluffy animals.

4. Personal Trainer: Think a muscular, robust red would work? Hold that position. Instead, try riesling: this light white wine pairs well with a health-nut diet of salad and seafood, plus it’s low in alcohol. You can also give it to Pilates instructors, yoga masters and Tai Chi coaches. 2009 Loosen Bros. Dr. L

5. Financial Planner: You and he both know it’s going to take decades before your portfolio recovers after the crash of 2008. With that long-term view, vintage port makes the perfect gift. This fortified wine from northern Portugal, with its long aging potential, will be around for both of you into your retirements. Taylor Fladgate 2007 Vintage Port

6. Travel Agent: She’s been everywhere and seen everything, so go local with your choice of wine. Even better, if you live close to the winery, get the bottle signed by the winemaker.

7. Teacher: If you can’t find a suitably obscure wine with a Latin name, there’s always cream sherry. It’s the tipple of Oxford dons, not to mention the centerpiece of Edgar Allan Poe’s classic short story The Case of the Amontillado. Harvey's Bristol Cream Sherry

8. Mail Deliverer: Go for a winery that’s consistent year after year in producing a wine that can be enjoyed in snow, rain, sleet or hail. Try an Australian shiraz or Argentine malbec.

9. Mechanic: Yes, there’s a wine called Red Truck, but try to be more imaginative. Why not give a wine made by Mario Andretti in California or Ferrari in Italy? Randy Lewis makes wine too! (Napa)

10. Online Date: So you’re on your second or third rendezvous with the person you met on eHarmony or Dating.com. If you’re not sure yet whether marriage is a possibility, try something middle-of-the-road, like merlot. Yes, it’s the soft jazz of wine, but until you know, play it safe. Columbia Crest H3 Horse Heaven Hills

And after all that shopping, don’t forget yourself: even Santa’s little helpers need more than milk and cookies. Try something with high-alcohol like Italian Amarone or Rhone syrah: these big reds easily drown out tone-deaf caroling and pair beautifully with tired feet.

1999 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia

2010-11-16T02:20:00.000-05:00

This was awesome! Proof that Bordeaux varietals have great potential in Bolgheri. Great fresh fruit aromas upon opening; so robust that they engulfed the room and those next to the bottle while decanting commented on the "lovely" and "sensuous" aromas wafting from the bottle. Mature, with harmonious balance between acidity and tannins, with a nice impression of both fresh and dried fruit; utterly smooth, with a caressing finish that lasts for minutes.

Eric Ripert prefers that his fridge is empty.

2010-11-02T08:30:00.001-04:00

Gourmet Live is quickly becoming one of my favorite websites when it comes to food. Here is an interview with Eric Ripert, the acclaimed chef of Le Bernardin, who recently celebrated a couple of rare events: earning 3 Michelin stars and 29 from Zagat.

Gourmet Live: What 10 ingredients are always in your fridge?

Eric Ripert: Honestly I don’t think I have 10 ingredients in my fridge, but I always have butter, yogurt and marmalade. We buy for the day and almost nothing goes into the fridge. I like to buy the right amount of food so there’s no waste. I just bought an apartment and it came with a very big fridge, but I gave it back to the building and asked for a smaller one because I don’t want to store a lot of things. I want to eat fresh, so really, the fridge is empty.

Gourmet Live: What 5 ingredients are always on your shopping list?

Eric Ripert: Shopping or not, I make sure that I always have salt, pepper, olive oil, butter and Herbes de Provence.

Gourmet Live: How would you describe the perfect dinner party?

Eric Ripert: When the host and guests are equally having fun. When the food and wines are delicious and ultimately at the end of the night everyone has a smile on their face. I think it’s always important to have a mix of things you can share. And very often when I throw a party, I break the ice by having drinks and intermezzos to share. Or I mix guacamole and everyone is dipping, so everyone’s sharing. And when we sit down, I plate individually.

1995 Château Léoville-Poyferré

2010-10-26T00:06:00.005-04:00

Unfortunately I tasted this only after it had been decanted. That being said, it was very aromatic upon opening and still held a deep reddish-purple core with only mild signs of age at the edges. A smooth, well-balanced, and mature wine. As for pedigree, In Frank Schoonmaker's eyes, Poyferré is the best vineyard in St. Julien and "perhaps a little fuller-bodied than the other Léovilles, and generally brings a slightly higher price" (1976). If you want something more like Pauillac, go for Léoville Las Cases which is near Château Latour on the border of St. Julien and Pauillac. This leads me to some words of wisdom I picked up along the way, if you like a particular winery and don't want to pay out of the nose for it, it'll pay to find one of their neighbors. Perfect example: Provenance of Rutherford gets a significant amount of their grapes from Beckstoffer's Georges III vineyard, which happens to be adjacent to Caymus. Try out the Provenance if you like Caymus and tell me I'm wrong. I have to credit this snippet of advice to the man who also recently shared his opinion about the 1995 vintage in Bordeaux. Frankly, the point was that 1995--while a notable vintage--is perfect with food due to their unique structure and notable acidity. So, if you're dining out and want to splurge on Bordeaux, 1995 Bordeaux is definitely a good choice.

P.S. I thank the accidental billionaires for making it possible for me to taste this wine.

Jancis Robinson rediscovers Savennières

2010-09-11T13:30:00.001-04:00

I caught her link on Twitter (@JancisRobinson) this morning. The article can be found here and has a few suggestions for you to try. Sadly, she does not note the prices for the wines; one particular wine, Joly's Coulée de Serrant (apparently meaning, "Casting of Tightening"), was recently listed in Wine Spectator's advanced newsletter as retailing for $100 (2007). To put that into perspective, a particularly renowned French restaurant in Boston's Back Bay (@LEspalier) carries the 2005 vintage (reviews) for that price! By the way, it's currently my favorite white wine and it has retained its #1 ranking for well over a year now.

Value hunting does pay off; foodies and their friends can enjoy a bottle at Silvertone, and also if you frequent this seafood giant at any of their Massachusetts locations, you'll find it there for a even better bargain. If you find it retail, try it out with a Margherita pizza (I recommend Regina's, medium basil, with a crisp crust).

I once purchased a bottle of the 2005 Nicolas Joly Coulée de Serrant at an undisclosed location of the aforementioned seafood giant and after having a glass with a good friend, I took the remainder of the bottle home. It lasted me over the course of 7 days and was stored at room temperature throughout the entire time. I tasted the wine every day at approximately the same time on each day and recorked it immediately after pouring; by the 7th day, the wine was still showing nicely. Additionally, I had another enlightening experience tasting the 2005 Coulèe de Serrant with a group of French winemakers and Erik Johnson, a person I consider as one of my many mentors in the industry and the one who first introduced me to the term Cork Dork. The wide range of opinions that emanated from that group amazed me, some went so far as to say that the wine was oxidized. Ultimately, that moment demonstrated the beautiful, completely subjective nature of wine in general. After all, subjectivity is fundamentally based on one's taste and I always try to stress the subjectivity of tasting notes and emphasize the use of them as a supplemental guide in developing your own palette. Think of it this way, if wine professionals can adamantly disagree over the characteristics of a wine and how one could realistically achieve such results via the winemaking process, this proves subjectivity because it ultimately relies on the winemaker's taste. This is one of the many reasons why everyone can and should enjoy what merely amounts to fermented grape juice.

Joly actually disputes the oxidation claim:

Chenin gets its complexity only when it is fully ripe – deep yellow. And only healthy, sustainable farming can guarantee this without grey rot.

For this reason, all our grapes are picked in four or five passes as each parcel begins to raisin and form botrytis - thereby allowing the mineral flavors of Chenin to achieve their fullest intensity.

Once opened, wines made in this way continue to improve – and are in no way oxydized.
To be sure that the color is not oxydation you can make the test yourself by tasting each day a glass over several days without putting the bottle in the fridge just recork. You will see the wine improving the first days even sometimes over more than a week. If the wine would be oxydized it would be undrinkable.

Snooth.com provides this bit of information on chenin blanc:

Classic descriptors for the flavors of Chenin Blanc include peach, honey, lanolin, marzipan, and quince jelly though the dry style from South Africa, where the wines are known as Steen, often exhibits more tropical fruit notes that recall pineapple and guava.

1997 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Classico Riserva

2010-08-01T22:25:00.000-04:00

This wine is drinking beautifully on day 3. A stellar vintage makes this effort quite the success as it is deftly aromatic, with scents of flowers, spice, and dark fruits. The back label actually provides you with this little gem about where the grapes come from:

Judicious blend of Nebbiolo grapes from the finest hillside sites in the commune of Barolo (Liste, San Pietro, Cannubi, Cannubi Boscis and Brunate. It has great substance and is intended to age for many years to arrive at the ultimate goal of balance and harmony. Alcohol, acid and tannin fuse together to form a ful-bodied (sic) structure and the bouquet shows great complexity. An elegant Barolo with true presence: an important wine for important occasions.

Upon opening the bottle a couple days ago, it showed brilliantly with a meal of monster-sized steaks; specifically a porterhouse and a bone-in New York strip, accompanied by sauteed broccoli, a medley of sauteed mushrooms and onions, and some onion rolls. I added some 2005 Barolo to the medley and used the rest of the juices to make into a sauce with more wine and butter to serve on top of the steaks and also added some to the broccoli. A nice little trick I learned from years in the industry is to add some of the wine (same varietal, ideally from the region) you plan on drinking to your sauce.

This is so well-balanced and food-friendly it's making me hungry just tasting the wine, a lovely dance between acidity, fruit, and tannins. A steal at $60. Wine Spectator ($) gave it 94 points in 2007 at a 1997 retrospective tasting:

Ruby-garnet. Aromas of strawberry, lilies and plum. Opens up beautifully. Full-bodied, with very soft and round tannins. Viscous and tannic. Still needs time to polish the tannins. Very concentrated.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best after 2010. –JS

Dom des Terres Falmet Cinsault 2007

2010-06-16T20:27:00.003-04:00

Are you on Twitter? You should be so you can follow me @sigwang along with other people like @JancisRobinson, and Gary Vaynerchuk. I found Jancis because I was curious as to who owned the name @CorkDork, so a hat tip to a fellow CorkDork.

Her entry on Cinsault is a delight inspired this post, plus I know where you can enjoy her recommended wine, Dom des Terres Falmet Cinsault in Boston, all thanks to this man. The floral and red fruit aromas are followed by a caressing softness on the palate and a decent amount of acidity leaves your mouth longing for another bite of food.

Yves Falmet majored in biochemistry, but when it comes to wine, he is self-taught. He established the domaine himself after having spent time in New Zealand. The vines are over 40 years old and the wine is unfined, unfiltered, and unoaked.

As for Cinsault, Robinson cleverly explains a bit about its history, like the fact that its progeny include Pinotage, of South Africa fame:

Cinsault is most commonly encountered in South Africa. In fact, having been known there originally as Hermitage, it is one of the parents, along with Pinot Noir, of the Cape’s signature grape Pinotage (geddit?). In South Africa it is often dismissed as a suitable ingredient for rosé, but it can yield lovely, early maturing reds too. (Remember the time when winemakers thought Grenache was good for nothing other than pink wines?)

Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut MV

2010-06-12T12:56:00.001-04:00

Acclaimed as the "world's best selling rosé Champagne", this is a delicious piece of work made from 100% Pinot Noir. I'm enjoying this with a plate of pork potstickers and steamed dumplings.

1987 Spring Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

2010-03-22T16:23:00.004-04:00

The noticeably clear edge transitioned into the classic brick color of a mature red, yet the color of core remained dark red. A lovely, mature Cabernet with 13.2% ABV that, upon opening, displayed rich amounts of black fruits (dried black currants or cassis come to mind), earth, and a distinct herbaceous character. On the palate it was smooth, caressing the taste buds with a slight touch of acidity and well-integrated tannins. I thought it could last for a couple more years, but Maitre'd Scott Crain felt it displayed some classic characteristics of aged Bordeaux, and should be drank soon.

The second day proved Crain correct in deeming that this wine is indeed peaking. Fruit flavors have faded drastically, but they linger before the flavors sweep to a sort of leather-like earthiness, dried herbs, and a touch of eucalyptus.

From the Archives: Big Reds, Perrier-Jouet, and a Chardonnay

2009-12-24T06:25:00.000-05:00

Probably one of the more extravagant pours for a retail tasting, but certainly worth the crowd. This tasting at the Spirited Gourmet featured Perrier-Jouet's 1999 Fleur de Champagne and also their 2002 Rosé, followed by 2005 Patz & Hall Durell Vineyard Chardonnay from Sonoma.

1999 Perrier-Jouët Fleur de Champagne, Epernay
Founded in 1811 by Nicolas-Marie Perrier and his wife Adele Jouët, this was beloved by English royalty. 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir, 5% Pinot Meunier sourced from grand cru vineyards in the Cote de Blancs and the Montagne de Reims.

2002 Perrier-Jouët Fleur de Champagne Rosé
55% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay from grand cru vineyards make this dazzling salmon-pink sparkler that calls for a celebration. First released in the U.S. in 1976.

2005 Patz & Hall Durell Vineyard Chardonnay
Two friends, one a winemaker formed Patz & Hall in Sonoma. Two clones here--Dijon (aromatics) and Wente (weight)--yield a ripe, opulent wine with a nice touch of acidity.

2005 Gaja Sito Moresco (Langhe)
Gaja was first to implement the use of varietals other than nebbiolo in single vineyard bottlings around Barbaresco. Estate grown vineyards, equal parts Nebbiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Super silky and glistening with plummy and black cherry fruit and only touches of oak. Gains momentum and building on the palate, it literally explodes with red berry fruit on the finish.

2004 Terlato Episode Red (Rutherford)
CA Bordeaux blends are "plumper and showcasing different flavors and textures due to terroirs of the regions". Rutherford is very unique and known for "Rutherford Dust" and it's cocoa-like flavor and texture.

2003 Rubicon Estate Cask Cabernet Sauvignon
Organically-certified vineyards adjacent to vines that produce Rubicon, which is built for the long-haul, offering gobs of dark fruit, Cask is more approachable in the near term and showcases red fruits. Ripe plum, bing cherry, dark chocolate coate the palate along with a touch of neutral oak providing a nice framework.

2004 Beaulieu Vineyards Georges de Latour Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley icon. Georges de Latour founded the winery over 100 years ago. Flagship wine, estate grown. Inky purple, inviting nose of toasty oak and super-ripe red and black fruits. Rich, intense, and textured mouth feel.

2005 Franciscan Stylus Red (Napa Valley)
Franciscan also makes Magnificant, a juicy Bordeaux blend from Oakville and Cuvee Sauvage, a Chardonnay made with wild, uncultured yeasts. This is the first vintage of Stylus. Full-bodied, ripe and generous, displaying great dark cherry, tobacco, and cocoa notes.

Holiday hiatus.

2009-12-24T06:07:00.000-05:00

The holidays are upon us and as you may have noticed, I haven't been blogging much. This is not to say that I haven't been tasting some lovely wines or expanding my knowledge to someday share with you, dear reader.

No, my day job has been taking up a great portion of my time, combined with extended time at the restaurant amongst other obligations, has left little extra time to blog. So, I'm making it official: I'm announcing a temporary hiatus, but not before tossing in this link on the Dry Creek Valley and a short rebuttal to a friend--with great taste in shoes--about why anyone would ever want to use Twitter, which is where the hat tip goes out to (HT: WineTwit).

Karen MacNeil's The Wine Bible identifies Dry Creek Valley as home to the Ridge's Lytton Springs Zinfandel, one of my favorites alongside their Geyserville bottling (Anderson Valley) and York Creek (Spring Mountain). Although, I must say I'm also quite the fan of Grgich Hills, but that's not from the Dry Creek Valley. Everyday, more affordable Dry Creek Zinfandels come from Mauritson, Four Vines' The Sophisticate, and Alderbrook owned by Terlato, owners of Episode, the yummy meritage showing the classic cocoa flavors people associate with the "Rutherford Dust"; and Chimney Rock in the Stags Leap District). All of these wines have a nice fruity, jammy flavor profile--some are fruit bombs, loaded with alcohol--perfect for those soon-to-arrive summer nights around a fully loaded grill with a cool breeze blowing through your hair. For the winter: think, warm fire, steaks, and great company, followed by some chocolate.

Speaking of food, here's a recipe from Alderbrook, found in the linked article:

BRAISED POT ROAST RAGOUT WITH POLENTA (serves 8)

6 pounds chuck roast

5 carrots, diced

5 parsnips, diced

2 small yellow onions, small diced

6 stalks celery, small diced

8 cloves garlic, minced

3 tablespoons picked thyme

1 pound button mushrooms

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 pounds hickory smoked bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces

3 cups zinfandel

10 cups veal stock (beef will do if necessary)

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 bay leafs

1/3 cup slurry (potato or corn starch and water mixture, mix into a thin paste)

Cut chuck roast into 1-inch pieces. Brown all pieces in a large stockpot with olive oil. Deglaze pan with zinfandel and reduce by half, set aside. In the same pan sauté the vegetables -- onions, carrots, celery, parsnips, and garlic for about five minutes, add thyme, and then set aside. In a separate pan render the bacon. After cooking, strain the bacon fat. Use a small amount of fat to sauté the button mushrooms and add to the vegetable mixture. In the large stock pot add the tomato paste and veal stock and bring to a boil for five minutes, then add the beef and wine mixture. Cover with lid and simmer for one hour. Then add vegetables, bay leaves, bacon and mushroom mix. Slowly simmer covered for 45 minutes or until meat is falling apart. Add slurry to thicken the stew and simmer for about five minutes.

For the polenta:

4 cups chicken stock

4 cups whole milk

2 cups corn meal

½ cup butter

1 cup parmesan cheese

Bring chicken stock and milk to a simmer. Add corn meal slowly and stir every five minutes to prevent from sticking. Continue to stir until mixture has thickened to a smooth consistency. Add butter and parmesan cheese.

Serve the ragout over the polenta.

Words of wisdom

2009-11-25T14:16:00.000-05:00

Frank Schoonmaker's Encyclopedia of Wine, 6th New Revised Edition (1976) provides this hilarious entry for the word dull:

A dull wine is like a dull person--perhaps honorable and sound, but not very interesting and certainly not much fun. Such a wine may be dry, full-bodied and have other qualities; it should certainly be cheap.

Happy Thanksgiving!

2006 Château de Puligny-Montrachet Monthélie

2009-11-20T04:27:00.000-05:00

This delightful Pinot Noir shows an exotic spiciness along with red fruits and earth followed by a nice touch of acidity, smooth tannins and a long finish. Delicious. On Monthélie (map):

Monthélie is the smallest village on the Côte de Beaune, with Volnay to the northeast, Meursault to the south and Auxey-Duresses to the west. The monks from Cluny planted the first vines here around the year 1000, but traces of human settlements go all the way back to Gallo-Roman times and beyond.

The Monthélie premier crus were extended as recently as 2006; going from eleven to 15 in number when Les Clous, Le Clos des Toisières, Le Clou des Chênes and La Barbière were promoted from village status to premier cru. Nine of the premier crus are located east of the village; being an extension of the Volnay premier cru Clos des Chênes. The Monthélie wines are often described as lesser Volnays, but at more reasonable prices. Most of what is produced in Monthélie is red; white wine only accounting for four or five percent.

This would be perfect with the spices often seen at Oleana (BostonChefs.com on Oleana), where Theresa Paopao has assembled a great wine list. My choices for the evening:

NV Sparkling Gruner Veltliner, E. Gruber ‘Punkt Genau,’ Weinviertal, Austria
2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault (plus another Rhone varietal), Chateau Musar, Bekka Valley, Lebanon (My first Lebanese wine! Have you ever had Lebanese or Israeli wine? Please share in the comments.)

Right now, I'm thinking of the delicious fried mussels with hot peppers and Turkish Tarator sauce--the crunchy romaine lettuce underneath worked great from a textural standpoint with the sparkling Groovy--and also THE LAMB steak, cooked rare with fava bean moussaka...yum, especially delicious with the Chateau Musar.

Thanksgiving Wine

2009-11-17T12:11:00.001-05:00

Affordable wines, as recommended by The Second Glass, for Thanksgiving. If you have time, you might want to check out their Crash Course events.

As for his recommendations, I must say, great choice with the Nino Franco Rustico Prosecco, this easy drinking sparkler consistently receives acclaim from critics. That being said, it's ultimately up to you to decide whether you like a particular wine. Wine critics are guides, not prophets.

Thanksgiving Wine

2009-11-15T23:24:00.000-05:00

In preparation for the season, Gary Vaynerchuk makes his Thanksgiving wine recommendations. More on that subject later.

2005 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant

2009-11-15T23:23:00.000-05:00

This delicious, absolutely hedonistic chenin blanc is truly worthy of having it's own AOC within Savennières. This wine is magnificent (and it's been open for several hours, long before my first glass). I'm buying a case.

Sweet aromas of honey with an essence of quince. Finishes dry with great balance. Lovely sweet notes move into fruit and then finish dry;a monumentally long finish, 2+ min.

Stay tuned for a review of an older vintage of this.

Also tasted that night was 2006 Auxy-Duresses White Burgundy, Deux Montille; and 2001 W. Gisselbrecht Gewurztraminer VT.

From the Archives: 2001 Rocca delle Macie "Primo Volo"

2009-11-12T00:20:00.000-05:00

I tasted the 2001 Rocca dell Macie "Primo Volo" on 1/11/2008 alongside several other wines.

This wine brings together three different powerhouse regions: Tuscany, Piedmont, and the Veneto. Made of equal parts Sangiovese, Barbera, and Merlot, with an additional 10% from the best region for that particular vintage.

In the case of the 2001, an additional 10% Sangiovese was included in the batch, making the final composition 40/30/30 respectively. It's a unique wine because it's the debut vintage and it's not classified; it's table wine. Story has it that the winemakers met on a plane and began talking, and probably drinking, together...by the end of the flight, they'd decided to make a wine together. This is the product of that collaboration. The barbera adds acidity and the merlot provides backbone to the delicate brawn of the sangiovese. 2001 was a great year in Tuscany.

Brilliant ruby colors with aromas of flowers and fruit; on the tongue flavors of cherries, plums, blueberries, and spice with nice acidity and a gracefully lingering finish.

More on the collaboration and process:

Sergio Zingarelli of Rocca delle Macie contributed the Sangiovese, Andrea Faccio of Villa Giada contributed the Barbera and Giordano Emo Capodilista of La Montecchia contributed the Merlot. Each batch was vinified separately at their respect place of origin and aged in French oak for 12 months before blending and bottling.

On Vodka: Belvedere & Chopin

2009-11-12T00:19:00.001-05:00

Found an old slice of paper that's now resting in my recycling bin. It's from a "training session" back in the day over the differences between Belvedere & Chopin Vodkas. Knowing what I know now, or should I say, who I know now, could probably go on for days about the different flavors and types of vodka. In fact, that might be a great idea for a guest blog post. He'll be opening up this place (Woodward Tavern in the Ames Hotel), next Friday. He's what I like to call a Liquid Chef, AKA mixologist. Go see him: English Bill.

Belvedere
Presidential Palace in Poland
Century-old distillery in the small town of Zyrardow, just west of Warsaw
Handcrafted in small batches to ensure superior quality
100% Dankowskie Gold Rye, only successfully grown in Mazovia, Poland
Unusually high percentage of starch, 65% by volume
2.2 pounds of Dankowskie Gold Rye go into every 750 ml bottle
Water used is drawn from their own artisan wells providing great purity
Distilled 4 times
Filtered 3 times
Bottles cleaned, filled, and inspected by hand
Every bottle goes through 33 quality control tests

Chopin
Named after Frederic Chopin, Poland favorite son
Distillery located near the town of Kzresk in the heart of the Podlasie (po-LASH-ee), region of Poland
Podlasie potatoes from small, practicing-organic farms of 250 acres or less that use only natural growing , fertilization, and harvesting methods
Most potatoes contain 12% starch; Podlasie contains 17-25% resulting in a richer, more flavorful vodka
Approximately 40 potatoes go into every 750ml bottle of Chopin, it's gluten and carb free
Water is pulled from 300 ft. deep artisan wells at the foot of the distillery
Distilled 4 times
Filtered 5 times

On Greek wine

2009-11-11T21:36:00.000-05:00

A wonderful friend of mine is a huge fan of Greece, especially Santorini, I really can't blame her and while reading about 2009 Boston Rising Star Theresa Paopao, sommelier at Oleana (yummy), speak on Greek wine, I couldn't help but think of my friend's smiling face. Cheers!

I think it's overlooked and underrated and we often associate Greek wine with Retsina, which is aged with pine resin, a flavor is off putting to a lot of people. I’m really into the whites from Santorini. The soil is all chalk and limestone and it’s notoriously windy, so the grapes are actually trained into little baskets so they don't blow away. It’s visually stunning. The two white grapes, Assyrtiko and Athiri are sometimes blended together are so bright and crisp and I've turned drinkers onto that right away.

Beer

2009-11-11T18:58:00.000-05:00

Where:

Lower Depths Tap Room, Kenmore Square, 476 Commonwealth Avenue, CASH ONLY.

What:

Troegs "Dead Reckoning" Porter: superb.

Ayinger Celebrator: yummy; celebrate good times indeed.

Southern Tier Mokah Stout: packs a punch with solid mocha flavor.

Harpoon 100 bbl Glacier Harvest Wet Hop: Marvelously delicious, the 2nd best of the tasting.

Smuttynose "Big A" IPA: smells kind, tastes smooth and sweeps 1st place with a big 9%.

ADDENDUM: After scanning Yelp reviews, I've gotta try those tater tots.

Rare bottle tasting notes.

2009-11-05T12:11:00.003-05:00

A wonderful source for tasting notes of rare and great bottles comes from the full auction catalog (large pdf) for an upcoming auction of a consignment from the Aubrey McClendon Collection and held by Spectrum Wine Auctions. Think Lafite, Latour, Le Pin, Mouton, Lafleur, DRC, Margaux, Haut-Brion, Screaming Eagle, Harlan, Petrus, Cheval Blanc, d'Yquem, and Shafer.

On 1959 Château Lafite Rothschild:

"The 1959 is unquestionably the greatest Laﬁte-Rothschild...The super-aromatic bouquet of ﬂowers, black trufﬂes, cedar, lead pencil, and red fruits is followed by one of the most powerful and concentrated Laﬁtes I have tasted..." [Score: 99] Wine Advocate # 95, Oct 1994

On 1982 Château Lafite Rothschild:

"...with a deep ruby/plum color revealing only a touch of lightening at the edge, the wine offers up an extraordinary nose of caramelized herbs, smoke, cedar, pen ink, black currants, and earth..." [Score: 97+] Wine Advocate # 183, Jun 2009

On 1945 Château Latour:

“This is a great - perhaps one of the greatest vintages. Spicy nose, eucalyptus, still full-bodied in the mouth with fruit and richness. Long ﬁnish and wonderful aftertaste.” Chateau Latour cellar notes

On 1961 Château Latour:

"...liquid perfection, exhibiting fragrant, cedary, trufﬂe, leather, mineral, and sweet, jammy aromatics, full-bodied, voluptuous textures, exquisite purity and concentration... the essence of compellingly great wine." [Score: 100] Wine Advocate # 129, Jun 2000

On 1995 Château Latour:

"...dense purple-colored 1995 exhibits jammy cassis, vanillin, and minerals in its fragrant but still youthful aromatics... with exceptional purity, superb concentration, and a long, intense, ripe, 40-second ﬁnish, this is a magnificent example of Latour." [Score: 96] Wine Advocate # 129, Jun 2000

On Château Margaux:

Château Margaux has in its possession some of the
earliest known documents from Bordeaux describing in great detail the study of terroir and its implication in making great wine. Under the Mentzelopoulos family ownership, this modern era of Château Margaux honors the great traditions of its past while continuing to make modern Bordeaux with the same classic reﬁned ﬁnesse and elegance.

1959 Château Margaux:

“Even before the beginning of the harvest, this vintage was acclaimed as "vintage of the century". Château Margaux 1959 is really a great wine, with a powerful, complex, very ﬁne and elegant bouquet. On the palate, it is very concentrated, powerful...Without any question, it is a very great bottle...” Château Margaux cellar notes, September 2002

1996 Château Margaux:

"...combining measured power, extraordinary elegance, and admirable complexity... it's a beauty! The color is opaque purple. The wine offers extraordinarily pure notes of blackberries, cassis, pain grille, and ﬂowers, gorgeous sweetness, a seamless personality..." [Score: 99] Wine Advocate # 122, Apr 1999

On 1966 Château Mouton Rothschild:

"...dark garnet color and classic sweet, spicy, tobacco, coffee, and black currant aromas are enticing..." [Score: 90] Bordeaux Book, 3rd Edition # B1, Jan 1998

On 1982 Château Haut-Brion:

"...another perfect wine and one of the all-time great Haut-Brions...Complex aromatics of scorched earth, smoked herbs, and sweet red and black currants are followed by a full-bodied, silky-textured wine..." [Score: 95] Wine Advocate # 183, Jun 2009

On 1982 Château La Mission Haut-Brion:

"..massive richness as well as abundant notes of black fruits, trufﬂes, creosote, scorched earth, smoke, and camphor, a colossal mouthfeel, a layered texture, incredible depth of fruit..."[Score: 100] Wine Advocate # 183, Jun 2009

On 2000 Château Le Pin:

"...explosive, virtually perfect example of this estate. Dense purple-colored, with luxurious levels of extract and richness, this intense, unctuously-textured, black fruit-ﬁlled..." [Score: 98] Wine Advocate # 146, Apr 2003

On 1982 Château Cheval Blanc:

"...gorgeously sweet entry displays ﬂavors of caramel, roasted coffee, jammy red and black fruits, coconut, and smoke. It is fat and full-bodied, with considerable tannin, structure, and muscle in the ﬁnish." [Score: 92] Wine Advocate # 129, Jun 2000

On 1990 Château d'Yquem:

"...gold color is accompanied by an exceptionally sweet nose of honeyed tropical fruits, peaches, coconut, and
apricots...massive on the palate, with layers of intensely ripe botrytis-tinged, exceptionally sweet fruit...one of the richest Yquems..." [Score: 99] Wine Advocate # 122, Apr 1999

On 1995 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche:

"...Stylistically, this borrows elements from both the '97 and the '96 as it combines moderate ﬂoral notes with most of the spice, soy and hoisin of the '96 plus the densest ﬂavors of any vintage to this point..." [Score: 94] Allen Meadows, May 2008

1962 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche:

"...the purity and detail are mind boggling. Silky, reﬁned and altogether classy with a ﬁnish that goes on and on. This is a wine of drama and emotion - in short, quintessential La Tâche that is knee-bending in its brilliance..." [Score: 99] Allen Meadows, Jan 2008

1971 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti:

"...perfumed mix of spiced tea, smoked beef jerky and abundant earth followed by incredibly rich, dense, round and velvety full-bodied, beautifully nuanced ﬂavors that completely coat the palate and deliver a stunningly long ﬁnish that simply goes on and on..." [Score: 98] Allen Meadows, May 2008

On 1997 Harlan Estate:

"...proves that American producers can create wine as impeccable and full-bodied from start to ﬁnish as their European associates."

On 2002 Screaming Eagle:

"...sweet, intense bouquet of black currant liqueur interwoven with lilac, vanillin, and subtle oak scents is followed by a majestic...extraordinary palate presence and stature. A wine of great aromatic and ﬂavor intensity with a long, 60-second ﬁnish..." [Score: 99] Wine Advocate # 150, Dec 2003

On 2000 Marcassin Chardonnay:

"...gorgeously perfumed, light green/gold-colored effort revealing tremendous power as well as notes of hazelnuts intermixed with white peaches, citrus oils, and other exotic fruits..." [Score: 98] Wine Advocate # 150, Dec 2003

ADDENDUM: the pdf file is no longer available from Spectrum Wine.

Foie gras interlude

2009-11-02T02:26:00.003-05:00

A quick thought, I found myself describing what exactly foie gras was tonight and the many ways it can be prepared...which led to a current yearning for a SDLT burger stuffed with foie gras, aioli on the side, rosemary pomme frites.

I wonder how that'd be with an egg worked in somewhere too...

Araujo Estate

2009-11-02T01:16:00.005-05:00

Located on an alluvial fan on the northern part of the Napa Valley, east of Calistoga, think...Chateau Montelena...mmmmm...Bottle Shock.

The first cabernet vine was planted their in 1964. Some are, hopefully, almost 50 years old! They also make a lovely Syrah. About themselves, they say this:

Protected by the Palisades Mountains to the north and cooled by westerly breezes from the Chalk Hill Gap, this 38-acre vineyard is planted on well-drained cobbly soils that produce a low yielding crop of exceptionally concentrated fruit. The wines produced in this remarkable place have a rare combination of forthright character with precisely defined flavors and fine textures, deep concentration without any sense of heaviness, and the capacity to develop profound complexity with age.

Altagracia was first bottled the year of my graduation, that's one for the memory. And an outstanding Syrah is on their hands, a grape I hold dear, here's evidence.

The most recent Syrah rated by Wine Spectator was the 1995, unfortunate there's not more 1995 Araujo Estate Eisele Vineyard Syrah tasting notes, printed 4/30/99:

Smooth, rich and elegant, with polished currant, leather, anise, earth and mineral flavors that are complex and concentrated, sophisticated and long. Best from 2000 through 2008. 340 cases made. –JL

The 2006 Syrah was co-fermented with 4% Viognier--think Côte-Rôtie style--with 21 months in French oak. If you've ever seen A Good Year with Russell Crowe, I believe it's based in the Rhone. The restaurant is also pretty good.

Hey want to see something cool? View video on a wine auction at Daniel in New York City, click on this link to a Wine Spectator video on auctions. I'm going to one of those, sooner than later...because I'm all for enjoying the things on my wish list.

2008 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc

2009-11-01T21:56:00.004-05:00

Cloudy Bay produces classical Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, but does so at a significant price premium...perhaps that's why it's under the LVMH umbrella. If you're lucky, you can find it for under $20. Frankly, if I were to suggest a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, I'd go with The Crossings at half the price.

Bright citrus aromas with flavors of grapefruit, lime, green pepper, and a touch of passion fruit complemented by a crisp acidity and juicy finish.

2005 Grebennikoff Cabernet Sauvignon

2009-11-01T21:41:00.003-05:00

Grebennikoff makes a mere 100 cases of this Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon per year with 20% merlot from estate vineyards. Oddly enough, you won't find this wine on their website, nor will you find it in any retail stores. However, you'll find it--dutifully nicknamed "The Diesel" by Seth Mandeville--BY THE GLASS at L'Espalier or by the bottle at any Sel De La Terre.

Full-bodied, balanced, and aromatic with flavors of black currant, mint, eucalyptus, earth, and cedar with well-integrated tannins and a long, juicy finish. Think steak or better yet, braised short ribs.

2007 Westport Rivers Rkatsiteli

2009-10-29T13:29:00.002-04:00

This is an impromptu tasting of a glass of white wine that I poured nearly 12 hours ago and totally forgot about.

My earlier review noted a touch of acidity with great fruit flavors and a strong, lasting finish. Currently, stone fruits dominate the aroma and the wine's formerly glorious acidity is practically non-existent, although I detect a mild presence at the very height of the finish.

Moleworth on minerality.

2009-10-29T12:55:00.004-04:00

James Moleworth ($) blogs, Andy Rooney style, in defense of the wine descriptor, minerality. Without further a due and for your reading pleasure:

Simply put, there are a few things in life that can’t ever be explained—they just are. People tend to look like their dogs. It always rains right as weekend getaway traffic starts. And there’s minerality in wines.

The wine lexicon is always taking some heat, and that’s a good thing....

There’s a lexicon for any field of endeavor or pleasure that draws people to it. Do we question the terms "can of corn" or "frozen rope" in baseball? I remember when hearing those for the first time, they certainly sounded odd. But they also piqued my interest in the game. When I heard the stories or explanations behind those expressions, it just kindled my interest even more. The lexicon helped to lure me in.

The wine lexicon has grown and developed as wine writing has spread far and wide. It’s certainly broader than ever. Today, delivering a concise tasting note that conveys to the reader a sense of the wine is a critical part of wine writing—always was, always will be. But I agree that there’s a balancing act when using the wine lexicon. Too concise a note, and it comes off as cold and uninteresting (both the writer and the wine). Too much baroque language, however, and the note comes off as lacking critical integrity, turning into a fan-styled rah-rah instead.

"Minerality" is one of those terms that convey a distinct aspect of wine, a bracing, distinctly non-fruit aspect. It also takes on personal connotations when people use it. I’ve kicked the jagged limestone chunks in Gigondas and tripped over the rolled stones of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I’ve scrambled up crumbling granite slopes in Chile, gotten sandstone dust in my mouth while in South Africa and been caked with clay and loam in Argentina. They all were different and after experiencing them all firsthand, I feel I can often find these different aspects of minerality in the wines.

Or should I say, in the better wines? No one ever seems to find minerality in an $8 critter label wine. Instead, it always seems to be in those wines that offer more complexity and dimension, the wines that speak distinctly of where they’re from. And ultimately, that’s what we’re all looking for—complexity and diversity. The more diverse the offerings we have to describe, the more diverse our lexicon needs to become.

So, sometimes I use terms like "iron" or "loam" to help convey that diversity. I don’t want to just say "minerality" all the time and leave it to the reader to assume there’s a range. But I also don’t want to write a 400-word tasting note with endless descriptors that turn into run-on sentences, leaving the reader blurry-eyed (though I don’t begrudge a writer their personal style). It's a balancing act, just like the wine itself.

I remember the first time I asked someone what exactly "oaky" meant when she referred to her favorite Chardonnay: Jordan. Moleworth recalls:

I remember one day as a youth, when my father was waxing poetic about a wine he was having at the dinner table. "Oak" this and all these fruit flavors he was finding. It was made from grapes, I thought, so how could there be raspberry and cherry in the wine? And oak?

“Think about licking this table,” said my dad, deadly serious.

My sister and I burst out laughing. We just didn’t get it then. But looking back now, I realize that incident helped kindle my interest in wine and, I think, "get it" today.

So, I’m going to hold the line on using the term "minerality," in no small part because I hope that it turns more folks on to wine, than not.

Petit Syrah

2009-10-27T01:25:00.004-04:00

The first winery I ever visited was Concannon Vineyards in the Livermore Valley, I was a senior in high school on a science trip to San Francisco and the surrounding areas. A beautiful, memorable trip. While checking out the website linked in my prior post (below), I came across an interesting blog post with the title P.S. I love you, keep in mind, this is all while trying to decide whether to consider linking to the site.

Obviously the movie came to mind and I clicked through with a bit of intrigue. Hence the topic of this post. Petit Syrah is a wonderful grape varietal, I've tasted several, but never recorded anything on them. I promise to share experiences with them at a later date, in the meantime, check out my review of Shafer's Syrah, Petit Syrah blend: Relentless. However, I will leave you with one particular Petite Syrah with an almost cult-like following: Stags' Leap Winery.

Courtney Cochran tells us a bit about the varietal and makes some recommendations:

Grown in France under a synonym, Durif, Petite Sirah really comes into its own in California, where plantings are on the rise. Stylistically, Petite Sirah is the vinous equivalent of comfort food: warm, hearty and perfectly suited to cold weather. Watch for the grape's signature notes of jammy black fruits, espresso, charcoal and black pepper in these selections; prices are approximate.
Bogle Petite Sirah, California, $9
Lava Cap Granite Hill Petite Sirah, Sierra Foothills, $25
Michael-David Winery Earthquake Petite Sirah, Lodi, $25

I agree with the Bogle suggestion, have yet to try those other two but certainly the place to grow them would be the Sierra Foothills and Lodi. I'm thinking Clos Saron's Black Pearl. Speaking of Clos Saron, anyone ever have one of their Pinot Noirs?

P.S. Yes I know there's different spellings and I've chosen one not in sync with what Courtney writes, you may disagree, but I'm sticking to it.

P.S. I love you =)

Can you say "productivity booster"?

2009-10-27T01:19:00.003-04:00

What a great addition this would be to my office, the plumbed version is worth it. Coffee...an aroma that is often found in red wines...any of them come to your mind? Here's a helpful link.

Bacon jam

2009-10-27T00:59:00.004-04:00

Some of my colleagues go wild over pork. I saw bacon jam on Uncrate.com and about lost myself in complete bliss over the idea of spreading this over some wheat toast in the morning along with my eggs, more bacon on the side, and black coffee. Seriously, this sounds delicious!

…..what the heck is bacon jam?...

It is something we’ve been cooking up for a couple of years now on our trailers and for our burgers

…….we take a big bunch of really really good bacon, and render it down...add a bunch of spices..onions, etc..and let it simmer for about 6 hours…give it a quick puree, and blast chill it…and you have bacon jam..

P.S. Eggs are fun and according to some, notoriously difficult, to pair wine with. Frankly, I think Erik Johnson said it best, "Want to drink burgundy with pizza? Go ahead! In fact, give me a call--I'll join you".

ADDENDUM: Bacon jam sells T-shirts! Steep, $35 + taxes/S&H, but how could you resist?

Le Bernardin

2009-10-26T14:03:00.005-04:00

A guest review on Wine me, Dine me and a personal shout out to Patrick of L'Espalier fame, one of Le Bernardin's newest talent acquisitions.

The dining room is beautiful and understated – clean lines, lit candles, light wood. The floral arrangements set all around are seasonal and stunning. We did not have to wait a single moment for our table even though we were early. The service is cordial. No one fawns over you – they do not have to. It is a privilege to be there. The food is the star of the show, not them, and certainly not you. As long as you go into the place knowing that, you will not get offended (some people need their proverbial asses kissed at all times. We’re totally not like that.). The service was unbelievably precise. A chair was pulled away from the table the moment you wanted to use the restroom. Your plate was cleared the moment you finished your last bite. The tablecloth was crumbed, wine was poured, glasses refilled. If you needed to walk back to your table, the staff would part like the Red Sea so you could make your way through.
[...]
The only disappointing portion of the meal (and by “disappointing” I mean “I didn’t have an orgasm when I ate it”) was dessert. Mike got a dark chocolate, caramel and peanut butter tart with praline ice cream and I got a hazelnut cream with homemade brown butter ice cream. Both were tasty but not extraordinary, but that was okay by me. By this point we were so thrilled with the food they could have given me an ice cream sandwich and I’d have been happy. We did order an after dinner drink. I had an armangnac and Mike got a cognac. That was probably a bad idea because they were expensive, but whatever, they were amazing and a perfect finish to our night of extravagance. We also got an amazing little set of petit fours at the very end of the meal which we ate with gusto despite being full. One of the main complaints about the restaurant is that the portions are too small. I say that people eat too much. The portions were perfect.

The bill was…well…it was big. Very big. Bigger than one ought to ever spend on dinner. But this wasn’t just dinner – it was an experience and one that neither of us will ever forget. We returned home broke, a little drunk, and unbelievably happy. If I were a millionaire, I’d eat there every week. As it stands, once a year will have to do. If you are ever in NYC and have some cash handy, please, go to Le Bernardin. Lunch is a bit cheaper (four courses for $68 – a steal!), so that’s a good option too. But if you love fish and you love food, you must experience Eric Ripert’s genius at least once. You won’t regret it.

2001 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

2009-10-25T18:50:00.008-04:00

Brunello--the Sangiovese clone know as Sangiovese Gross--is responsible for many awesome wines coming from Montalcino, gets its name from the brownish hue of the grape when it's ripe. There are three distinct areas in Montalcino, each of which produces a particular style. Generally speaking, from one of my reading sources, brunellos are big, rich, powerful and firm, exhibiting a peppery, almost spicy characteristic, along with tea, cinnamon, and fig.

Montalcino is divided into three major regions: the sunbaked southwest that produces big and rich wines, the northeast-facing scarp slope yields the elegant wines, and the firmest come from the sheltered southeast slope which is home to the pioneering Biondi-Santi.

Compared to my last review of this wine, I've come a long way and so has this 95-pointer from the classic 2001 vintage, which according to Wine Spectator, I opened too early. I rationalize it as research on how it's developed 18 months later.

Beautifully aromatic with aromas of dried citrus, culminating with red fruits, particularly with dark cherries dominating, followed by earth, leather and a touch of creamy vanilla and wood. On the palate, it exhibits a nice profile of red fruits intermixed with just the slightest touch of acidity and firm, yet subtle tannins that lead to a persistently dry finish.

Enjoyed alongside a nice medium rare New York Strip. As for cheese, I'm thinking Piave Vechio, Parmesan Reggiano, tallegio, perla gresia, cacio di bosco.

Second day: garnet-brick colors with more pronounced leather aromas, soft red fruit flavors on the palette, low acidity, dry finish.

Where to find it? One possibility D&L Liquors in Waltham and also in Woburn (~$70). I know Deluca's on Newbury St and Fairfield St carries Capanna wines, but not the 2001 Riserva.

Stay tuned for a recap of today's tastings

2009-10-25T01:54:00.010-04:00

You can expect an upcoming summary of a day full of tastings in the outskirts outside of Boston in couple of days:

Grand Tasting at Gordon's Fine Wine & Liquors in Waltham

Fall Tasting at Spirited Gourmet in Winchester

Followed by an evening at the restaurant where I learned about a neighbor of Peter Michael who makes less than 100 cases of lovely sauvignon blanc, Knight's Bridge, which also has an awesome website, with recipes, maps, and excellent food pairings with their wine--I'm feeling a trend of only 100 cases of each. Here's one of the pairings:

2006 Knights Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon: Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard:

Herb-crusted lamb loin with terrine of potatoes and local radish/haricot vert salad. For dessert, couple with chocolate soufflé cake with crème anglaise and fresh blackberries.

P.S. The Spirited Gourmet in Belmont has a series of magnums like Grgich Hills 02 Cabernet Sauvignon on clearance, ones that I bet are close to peaking and in some rare cases, getting ready for the long haul of 10 years, maybe more. I've been tempted, but have yet to succumb.

Also, Gordon's hosts awesomes events, like the Sommelier Smackdown, 4 courses, 2 sommeliers, 8 different glasses of wine, you choose the winner, hosted by Sel De La Terre duo: Ian Grossman and Louis DiBicarri.

$1 Million dollar wine book

2009-10-23T13:32:00.004-04:00

Kraken Opus CEO Karl Fowler makes a bold claim in saying "this is not a book", but it's backed up by the inclusion of a six-bottle case from 100 wineries to be selected in March at a gathering of top sommeliers in London. I wonder who'll be in attendance at this exclusive tasting to be known as "The United Nations of Wine".

Rachel Solar reports for Stuff@Night that only 100 books will be published. This makes 60,000 bottles, 600 bottles from each winery. CBC News has a more accurate price tag: £640,000 or $1.12 million with a weight over 30 kg and a size of 1.5 square meters. So what wines do you think will be selected?

I certainly hope Joly's Clos de la Coulée de Serrant makes the list because it's an exceptional chenin blanc--think seductive--so exceptional, in fact, to have its very own AOC (think Romanée-Conti and Château-Grillet).

1997 Freemark Abbbey Bosche Cabernet Sauvignon

2009-10-22T02:38:00.006-04:00

From one of the guys, more specifically, The Wine Commonsewer.

A review of a stellar vintage in Napa and one of its major players from back in the day...e.g. Judgment of Paris, think Bottle Shock, the movie, but the part that should've been about the reds.

I've tasted the 2002, a legendary cabernet from a great year, yielding an aromatic Cabernet Sauvignon with juicy fruit that you could smell from a mile away while properly decanting with one of these into one of these). Awesome finish.

On dessert wines

2009-10-21T14:28:00.003-04:00

Via Erik Johnson (Facebook). Online WSJ profiles California dessert wines.

My first memorable dessert wine was King's Estate Vin de Glaciere Pinot Gris with creme brulee at Hamiltons (Facebook).

Want your own cask of scotch?

2009-10-21T14:13:00.002-04:00

Glenglassaugh gives scotch drinkers something to enjoy on a more personable touch. Made by men who distinguished themselves at places like Highland Park, Scapa, Glenmorangie, and Balvenie (I attended a tasting of Balvenie a few months back). From UrbanDaddy.com's email newsletter:

Introducing Glenglassaugh's Cask Ordering Service, a radical new concept that lets you order up a full cask of scotch now and drink it down in the future, available now.

Essentially, it's something you've always wanted: an epic amount of scotch, all for you. The brand sets you up with an octave—basically, a 50-liter cask—of hooch, and then lets it age for at least seven years. (You can let it go as long as you want—and you can even fill it up with the raw stuff yourself, if you happen to be in the Scottish neighborhood.) The price tag is a little more than 800 big ones, though it averages out to about 16 bucks a bottle—think of it as a blue-chip investment.

After that, just sit back and wait. Every year, they'll send you some samples just so you know how things are coming along. Then, when time is up, they'll bottle it for you and ship it your way—so in seven, maybe 12 years, you'll get a knock on the door from whatever hybrid of FedEx-DHL-UPS is still around, ready to drop off nearly 50 bottles of your very own, ready-to-drink scotch.

UrbanDaddy Boston also gave me the inside scoop for The Macallan's recent tasting at Cyclo-Rama.

2007 Westport Rivers Rkatsiteli

2009-10-21T12:36:00.003-04:00

Westport Rivers Winery in Westport, MA is a quaint, lively place and if one is so inclined, include a brewery next door. They specialize in one of the most versatile styles of wine when it comes to drinking on any occasion: Champagne. In the case of most every maker who uses the traditional method outside of the Champagne region in France, they call it sparkling wine. But that's not the point of this post. The point isn't over the fact The point here is to share what else they've got in their hands with you.

Rkatsiteli originates from Georgia (Russia) and Wikipedia seeks a source verifying whether it was enjoyed extensively throughout the USSR, accounting for 18% of all wine production. The 2007 Westport Rivers Rkatsiteli is hailed to be the best vintage yet by a member of the Russell family. It's a delicious, medium-bodied white with great fruit flavors balanced with a nice touch of acidity and followed by a strong, lasting finish. The finish could be attributed to the meal I just ate, seared pork alfredo with a touch of chili garlic sauce.

Shameless self-promotion: Try this with charcuterie, things like SDLT's duck liver mousse with a glass of both the Westport RJR and the 2007 Rkatsiteli. Tues. & Weds. after 9 pm are charcuterie bar nights, $10 all you can eat, downstairs bar.

Stay tuned for reviews on some of the following, including their rare Pineau de Pinot, a distilled Pinot Noir blended with fermented Pinot Noir juice.

I've experienced many of their wines:

Rose of Pinot Noir (drank on the beach with rabbit and duck filled charcuterie items from Formaggio Kitchen, Cambridge).

2007 Chardonnay sporting low acidity, slightly creamy texture, and flavors of gala apple.

2001 Westport Imperial Sec, offering a slight sweetness mingling with stone fruit, then subdued by a rush of its lovely effervescence into a long, vibrant finish.

1993 Maximillian, their Tête de Cuvée, is aged on the lees for 15 years before disgorgement, creating a deliciously complex sparkling wine with beautiful gold colors and a firework show of bubbles.

1999 Blanc de Blancs

2001 Blanc de Noirs

2003/04 Westport Rivers RJR

non-vintage Pinot Gris

2006 Rkatsiteli

"Foxy" gene identified

2009-10-21T02:01:00.002-04:00

Wine Spectator reports on advances in successfully isolating the gene that leads to "foxy" aromas in wine. While it'll probably be possible to breed a grape that has "European flavors" and "American resistance" in the near future, getting around numerous regulations over labeling, licensing, and everything else will be interesting to say the least.

A single gene change, whether through breeding or direct genetic manipulation, robs a grape of the right to carry a famous varietal name like Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay. The hurdle of marketing new varieties might be the biggest challenge of all.

Additionally, pesticides are the main expense for vineyards and one of their greatest worries is mildew, for which they spray every 2 weeks to prevent.

2005 Denuño Jumilla, Spain

2009-10-20T14:01:00.004-04:00

I worked an event for the New England Culinary Guild at the Commander's Mansion in Watertown. There I met a member of the family behind BLM Wine and Spirits. We poured several wines, unfortunately I only really tasted two of the wines, both red, enough to develop the opinion; the others were a Pinot Gris, a Prosecco, and a Kerner.

2005 Denuño: Jumilla, ESP
This exciting blend of 90% Petit Verdot, 5% Monastrell, and 5% Syrah with 13.5% alcohol, 6 months of barrel aging juice is delicious. I was speaking with John, host of a radio talk show on food and wine, about the varietal characters of Petit Verdot and how this was the most petit verdot I had ever had in a wine and hence the closest thing I've gotten to experiencing its pure varietal characteral s demonstrated in Heitz's 100% Petit Verdot, which also, surprisingly enough, has 13.5% alcohol.

The Winemaker calls wild berries, spice, and toasted oak. I wrote, garnet to ruby colors on the fringe, with creamy sort of dark fruit (black & red), spice, and a slight touch of an earthy element. A bit restrained when first opened. Soft tannins, low acidity, and a nice finish round out this easy-drinker. Decant.

Many people asked about how much I thought this wine would cost in the store. I reasoned it'll be no more than $15, but I'm curious to find out. Also, one particularly lovely lady ;) asked about the wine's with the most reservatrol in the same line as pinot noir. For the record, Tannat comes from the Madiran and has been suggested to me to have the most reservatrol.

Stay tuned for more on Pinot Noir, and for the lovely lady who requested a list of affordable Pinot Noirs, one will follow shortly.

The other red was a Mendocino Barbera that was deliciously plush with red fruit with some zippy acidity and mild tannins (IMO, tannins + meatless pizzas = bad), I instantly thought back to sharing many Regina's margarita pizzas with medium basil and crispy crust with many bottles of Barbera d'Asti and Barbera d'Alba.

Shameless plug to somewhere else related to wine: A perfectly affordable case of wine.

2006 Gaja Sito Moresco & Ca'Marcanda Blanc?

2009-10-18T18:53:00.004-04:00

Garnet red with shades of light pink at its furthest edge. Wonderful aromas of black and red fruits, roses, subtle spiciness, leather, and dark chocolate; a very aromatic, well balanced wine with fine, integrated tannins with just a touch of acidity and a long finish.

This wine is being enjoyed alongside Chinese watercress sauteed with garlic and a pork stir fry with mushrooms and peppers heaped atop a mound of white rice. I'd also pair this wine with hearty fare: steak, duck, pork, short ribs, pizza with mozzarella and basil, and most anything with white or black truffles. As for cheese, Perla Gresia, Cacio di Bosco (sheep), robiola, La Tur, Tallegio, Piave Vecchio.

My review of the 2005 Sito Moresco is here. Two bottles left of the 2006, to be drank sooner than later, probably over the next year.

Side note: Gaia Gaja writes about Ca'Marcanda's 2009 harvest and their experimentation with white varietals in Wine Spectator.

I like the strong experimental nature of Ca'Marcanda. Since the winery is quite young, with the first vines planted in 1996, we give total freedom to all sorts of experiments, such as planting white grapes, green harvest and trimming, and different methods of vine training (such as Guyot and Cordone Speronato). Each parcel that has been treated differently is kept separate for micro-fermentation and aging. Our experimental wines currently are sold in bulk.
[...]
At Ca' Marcanda, there are two distinct soil types, terre bianche (white soils), composed mainly of clay and limestone, and terre brune (dark soils), which contain less limestone. The grapes from the darker soil taste fruitier, sweeter and more delicate, with softer tannins. Grapes grown in the lighter soil have intense flavor, bigger tannins and a notable structure that differentiates those for the Camarcanda (terre bianche) from those for the Promis (terre brune) bottling.

Foie gras

2009-10-18T09:40:00.002-04:00

Salon cuts through the hype over foie gras.

I love Hudson Valley foie gras turned into a torchon, I love it on top of a SDLT burger, my suggestion for a SDLT burger with foie gras torchon was featured in Boston Magazine's Best of Boston award write-up for SDLT's bar menu, the behemoth was noted by Boston Magazine editors to be

positively gut-busting.

More importantly, here's a much more enlightening quote, specifically from Izzy Yanay, owner of Hudson Valley foie gras,

The foie gras could be delicious, but if it's being produced with the torture of animals, it should not be produced. It should be banned, and I'll be the first one to close the farm if the duck would not be comfortable.

Try pairing foie gras in its many forms with a Sauternes, Alsace Riesling or Guwerztraminer (especially SGNs & VTs), Samos Muscat, or better yet, Shadow Canyon's late harvested, botrytized Pinot Blanc known as Paeonia. Paeonia is stellar, viscous, well-balanced, complex, and utterly delicious; the current vintage is 2004 and it comes from the Bien Nacido Vineyard, home to some fabulous Syrahs and also white Rhone varietals like Roussanne.

1997 Kalin Cellars Sauvignon Blanc

2009-10-18T06:58:00.002-04:00

Found this beauty at Eastern Standard (ESK) for around $50 after attending Sommelier Smackdown where Kate Moore of L'Espalier took the crown from Todd Lipman of Bin 26 Enoteca as they dueled it out to pair 4 wines to the theme of Breakfast for Dinner.

Deep golden color, subtle fruit, traces of sweetness, low acidity, nice creamy'ish mouthfeel, long finish.

1995 Guenoc Reserve Beckstoffer IV Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

2009-10-18T05:35:00.007-04:00

At age 13, you could smell and taste the loamy currant, hints of cedar, well-integrated tannins coat the mouth, all of this leaves me wanting a bit more. This pales in comparison to the other wine of the night (see below).

ADDDENDUM: You can't see below because this blog has been imported and this post was retrieved from my archives: 10/3/08). The other wine of the night: 2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia. We had both these wines with porterhouses and I think sauteed spinach, peppers, and other vegetables along with baguettes. Good night. Thanks P.

On Steaks (Jean Luc Colombo)

2009-10-18T05:06:00.006-04:00

Just thinking back to my earlier post, steaks are so easy to pair with red wines that you've tasted before. Think back to what the wine tasted like and then season your steaks accordingly.

Example, I'm thinking of Syrah. One by made by the man who said this:

Cornas is part of the Northern Rhône hillsides, which is where Syrah comes from, and where Syrah gives its greatest expression. At the same time, the hills of Cornas benefit from Mediterranean influences, which bring a lot of character to the wine.

Cornas' hero, and non-traditionalist (supscription required?) Jean Luc Colombo's Les Farot Syrah, 2006 Côtes du Rhône. It's 100 % Syrah, yummy with spice, juicy, with a nice earthiness accompanying a grip of fruit and nicely balanced tannins. His "non-traditional" ways: French oak, destemming, and green harvests.

Here's what I do with the steak: rosemary, some garlic (completely optional), olive oil, and cook to R- (rare minus) by special cooking method not permitted in restaurants per health regulations. Then sear the steaks under some fire after seasoning with sea salt, fresh cracked black peppercorn, fresh rosemary, thyme. Think garrigue when seasoning.

Sidenote:

Speaking of steak wines, Wine Spectator's Sam Gugino talks about Wagyu Skirt (skirt steaks are one of the butcher's cut (like hangar steak) and red wines like a California meritage, Super Tuscan, Aussie Shiraz (Mollydooker's $90 Carnival of Love), and an Argentinian Malbec. Mollydooker, with 95 pts, was the only one to receive a plug because it was deemed WS worthy. Don't get me wrong, it's a great wine, in the same level as this.

Beckstoffer grapes are on James Laube's newest hot list of California Cabernets and understandably so. My last Beckstoffer encounters were through several wines by Anthony Bell 's Bell Wine Cellars, and a 1995 Guenoc Beckstoffer IV from over a year ago.

Facebook plug to Bell Wine Cellars and a bravo to Anthony Bell for the 2004 Sonnette! I'm looking forward to reviewing his Clone 6 Cabernet Sauvignon.

Spirited Gourmet, Winchester, MA

2009-10-18T03:22:00.000-04:00

Erskine poured, I drank, spit some, and took notes each of which is followed by my at the moment wine pairing with each:

2008 South African Sauvignon Blanc from Stellenbosch made by Mulderbosch
Acclaimed to be the standard for South African Sauvignon Blanc is a pretty big assertion, an agreeable standard, Right now, I'm thinking pan sear scallops (dusted in sugar, honey, butter), speck, citrus, and a plate studded with balsamic reduction for some toasted sourdough baguettes.

Newton's other Chardonnay, 2007 Red Label
A Wall Street Journal Top Pick, nicely balanced, buttery and oaky chardonnay with a nice creaminess, and small notes of acidity. Think butter poached lobster (I'd also go with a white Burgundy), polenta, coddled egg, and tempura bok choy (from the man at the heart of the house at SDLT Back Bay).

2007 White Riesling by Fenestra
Displays varietal character aromas like good Australian or Alsace rieslings, but not much on the palette. It'd be decent with a variety of foods, but not something to scream to the hills about, it's more about lubricating the company that you keep with these wines ;) Decent value for an evening sipper with a few indulgent snacks, close friends, and a show.

A 2007 Bonarda (aka Charbono) made by La Posta, from Mendoza
Charbono is a great steak wine, specifically if you're having a BBQ involving charcoal and beef or smoked baby back ribs rubbed in a sweet marinade involving lots of black peppercorn. It's the most widely planted grape in Argentina, but it follows in the shadow of Argentinian Malbecs, a major sales beacon not short in supply. Perfect for a night by the fire with dark chocolate, e.g. after aforementioned dinner above. Keep your eyes peeled for my review of and pairing with Robert Foley's Charbono.

2005 Gundlach Bundschu's (GunBun) Mountain Cuvee from Sonoma
Yummy. Bordeaux like with great fruit with a nice peppery punch of Syrah. Erskine suggests roast leg of lamb. Agreed with some carrots; bacon wrapped fingerlings and a sides of rosemary pomme frites and broccoli sauteed in garlic, soy sauce, and oyster sauce.

2007 Pillar Box Red Hendry's Drive from Padthaway in Australia
Juicy, value with 90 points from Robert Parker. Erskine suggests a bowl of chili or cheese enchiladas. I say make the chili semi-sweet and with some nice spice. or a nice juicy steak, like a filet au poivre or a plate of beef carpaccio, sopressata, and olives with toasted baguettes, and balsamic reduction.

Sidenote:
Staff Tasting tonight included a blind tasting of the easy-drinking Italian Pinot Grigio Volpe Pasini's Grivo from the Colli Orientalli del Fruili, meaning the eastern hills of Fruili, considered to be one of the best regions, Karen MacNeil might even call it the best area.

Disclaimer: I guessed wrong..lol..oh well, I'm not even close to be ready to jump on level 2 certification, expanding my French repertoire.

Followed by Ben Marco Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina and the Mauritson Dry Creek Zinfandel served with Steak Frites. Both are great reds for juicy, red steak frites in a red wine shallot reduction. That Malbec reminds of the Sabato, the latter was better but more expensive and the best glass on the wine by the glass (WBG) list at the time and more expensive than the current price of the Ben Marco (<$60). This would also go great with deconstructed PBJ sandwiches or loads of jam and a plateful of cheeses like a robiola (luxurious with La Tur), clothbound Cheddar, Roaring 40's, and Perla Gresia (aka Gray Pearl; Antonio Carpaneda, master “affinatore” of the Casearia creates this yummy Italian cheese from the Veneto, cow's milk, 90 days aging, studded with black truffles and with a cinnamon and ash rind).

Distinguished Napa Valley Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Zinfandel man, Mike Grgich, traced Zinfandel's roots to his native Croatia (you'll see a Croatian flag on all his labels), his researchhas been confirmed. The Mauritson Zinfandel was filled with jammy, borderline raisiny/pruny fruit and packed a punch without seeming hot. It's from the Dry Creek Valley so I'd judge it to be moderate in alcohol content compared to some other Zinfandels like the 2006 Four Vines Maverick. Delicious. I wonder about Croatian cheeses, I'd pair it with a creamy Brie di Nangis, "sticks" of Piave Vecchio, Istara's Ossau Iraty, Cacio di Bosco (Pecorino Tartufo), Humbolt Fog or Bijou melted underneath the salamander on a toasted baguette then slathered with jam.

2002 Shafer Relentless

2009-10-13T01:46:00.001-04:00

I've always been a fan of Shafer wines. Back in the day at Hamiltons, I credit Shafer wines with my epiphany and what has become a well-paying job for me as a sommelier. I'd have to say it was a toss up between Shafer's Relentless and Firebreak, but what sealed the deal in 2005 was their Hillside Select. Now, on to the note for the 2002 Relentless.

Deep purple colors with minor fading on the edge. Dark fruits, meat, pepper, herbs (rosemary on 2nd day), subtle cedar aroma. Full-bodied and well-balanced with flavors of dark fruits (my mom tasted plums; sounds like her palette is developing nicely), pepper, and a creamy mid-palate texture followed by integrated tannins and a mild acidity.

When I opened the first bottle of this half-case awhile back (about 1 year ago) I thought it was at or near its peak. Now, I feel it can go a bit longer; I've got two bottles left.

Current vintage: 2006.

I recently tasted the 2005 Hillside Select and was thoroughly impressed. It's almost shameful to drink it so young, but it's seductive and extremely delicious. Too bad the Hillside Select mailing list is closed :(

Belle Pente

2009-09-13T21:11:00.001-04:00

Belle Pente (pronounced "bell pont", meaning "beautiful slope") makes several wines from vineyards throughout Oregon's Willamette Valley. I've had the pleasure of tasting 3 of them: 2007 Pinot Noir (Willamette), 2007 Pinot Gris, and 2006 "Belle Pente Vineyard" Pinot Noir.

The 2007 Pinot Noir is unfined and unfiltered and lighter in style for a typical pinot noir with bright garnet colors radiating through the cloudiness. Strong earthy aromas dominate upfront but as the wine opens, red fruit aromas emerge with a subtle spiciness across the nose. Great flavor.

The 2007 Pinot Gris comes from Yamhill County and undergoes long, cool fermentation in stainless steel, with an extended sur lie and exposure to neutral oak. Nice flavor.

The 2006 Belle Pente Vineyard Pinot Noir is from the Yamhill-Carlton District, planted in 1994. It's made with indigenous yeast and spends 18 months in French oak. It's full, rich, and complex with an excellent display of black fruit alongside a spicy characteristic, reminiscent of Burgundy, accompanied by earthy flavors.

ADDENDUM: For the Burg-hounds.

2004 Bell Sonnette

2009-08-16T20:59:00.001-04:00

My first taste of this lovely wine occurred a couple months ago at a wine tasting with Anthony Bell at the Spirited Gourmet in Belmont (of Mitt Romney fame). There we tasted Bell's Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Claret, Cabernet Sauvignon--including his Clone 6, and Syrah. All were wonderful wines, I'd tasted the Claret on a previous occasion and enjoyed a bottle of his Cantebury Syrah awhile back. Reviewing the provided literature led me to ask about Sonnette--French for "bell"--the Bordeaux blend absent from the table.

After the tasting and having browsed the shelves of the Belmont store, I returned to the tasting table to the news that hidden beneath the table was a bottle of Sonnette. Upon tasting and having learned when the bottle was opened, I knew I had a winner (even though I'd already purchased a couple bottles of Clone 6).

Tonight, I give you the breakdown:

The 2004 vintage is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from Oakville (14%), Rutherford (14%) and Carneros (14%); Merlot (25%) from the Spanos-Berberian vineyard surrounding the winery; Cabernet franc (12%) from Atlas Peak and Petit verdot (11%) from the Massa Ranch in Yountville. Aged 19 months in 69% French, 31% American, 86% new oak; bottled 2006, 200 cases made

Reddish-purple in color with bright aromas of black and red fruit, it also smells hot with alcohol. Probably not the best wine to open up on a hot, humid day in the middle of August, nonetheless, still great. Great fruit flavors on the palate, nice acidity against a tannic structure that has softened with age. This is built for the long haul, how long I'll hold on to it is another question.

2002 Clos Saron Heart of Stone

2009-08-02T17:13:00.000-04:00

I've always been a fan of Rhone varietals and stumbling upon this 100% Syrah from the Sierra Nevada Foothills was a pleasant surprise. Grown on its original rootstock, these vines sit 2300 ft above sea level and yield a full-bodied, bio-dynamic red with just 13.2% alcohol.

Given that I bought this unfined and unfiltered wine today on a whim (even with the new 6.25% sales tax) at the Winchester Spirited Gourmet, it might have been wise to give it a day or two to rest.

With 7 years of age, the color is still a robust purple, with brick-colored edges and extremely long legs. The nose is filled with vibrant dark fruits and a pronounced spiciness, it almost smells hot with alcohol. This lead me to throw it in the fridge for a moment. After which, an elegant, integrated wine emerged; black and blue fruits, juicy acidity, smooth tannins, and subtle oak influences all dance together in splendid harmony.

There's two bottles left at the Spirited Gourmet in Winchester, MA. Grab them fast, or at least before I do.

Clos Saron's website.
Spirited Gourmet's website.

2005 Two Hands Ares

2009-06-23T00:25:00.002-04:00

Dark purple with black pepper, black berry, tar, black raspberry, black cherry and an aroma of vanilla. Wow.

ADDENDUM: While dining at the Boston Morton's in the Seaport District. The 2002 Darioush Shiraz followed later than evening along with some Mickey D's. I paired the Darioush with BBQ sauce and chicken nuggest. Following that was 2006 Two Hands Bella's Garden. Fun night, thanks P and Jill Feeney for the outstanding service.

There's also a funny story from that night of a blind tasting with my mother, cousin, yours truly, Morton's AGM Scott Platt, and burgundy cooking wine.

2006 Four Vines Maverick Zinfandel

2009-06-22T21:45:00.000-04:00

I bought this after upon seeing a Four Vines bottling without a screw top, e.g. Stelvin closure (Here's one example of a winery using them, and then there's Plumpjack or the Rhone Rangers' Bonny Doon (Flash required).

This is a 14.9% fruit bomb from Amador County filled with bright and jammy fruit, leather, and black pepper.

Think steak au poivre or for cheese: a creamy robiola like La Tur, Pecorino Toscano, Blue Ledge Farm's Lake's Edge or Cypress Grove's Humbolt Fog, Jasper Hill Farm's Bayley Hazen or their clothbound cheddar, and King's Island Dairy's Roaring 40's blue.

Burgundy wine tasting

2009-05-31T17:30:00.000-04:00

White

2007 Marc Morey Bourgogne Aligote: Aligote, the other white grape of Burgundy, rarely has contact with oak, this yields a clean, fresh, and crisp wine with bright citrus and a tangy finish.

2006 Gueguen Petit Chablis: Limited contact with oak allows the fruit and minerality to show.

2007 Larochette-Manciat Macon: Displays a clarity of fruit and minerality.

Red

2007 Roux Pere Bourgogne: Nice acidity and show of fruit for an entry-level red Burgundy.

2005 Brintet Mercurey Veilles Vignes: Old vines located in the village of Mercurey within the Cote Chalonnaise produce a wine that shows earthy flavors and red fruit, particularly cherries.

2005 Chateau de Chorey Chorey-les-Beaune: Sourced from vineyards in the shadow of the great hill of Corton in the Cote de Beaune, this is nicely polished, a fairly dense and earthy wine balanced by nice acidity and subtle red and blue fruit.
2005 Lamy Santenay Clos des Hates: As a Santenay, I was expecting something more rustic but found this to be more fruit-forward than the Chorey. Still nice, with a silky, round feeling with a touch of acidity compared with the red.

1999 Francis Coppola Director's Reserve Merlot

2009-04-05T23:56:00.000-04:00

Upon visiting a colleague's home the other night, he surprised the group with this bottle of wine, but without the means to open it. Fortunately for all of us, I always seem to carry a corkscrew or have access to one...weird I know. Upon opening, the softness of the entire cork was of some concern which quickly dissipated as my olfactory senses picked up the aromas of red berries, eventually leading my mind to believe almost as if there were dark chocolate-covered cherries right in the bottle. On the palate its fleshy, fruit-forward characteristics surprised me for a wine with 10 years of age and led me to believe it was quite the fruit bomb in its youth. However, the noticeable presence of tannins--although fairly well integrated--suggest the wine had the capability to age even longer. Grade: B+

2005 Gaja Sito Moresco

2009-01-14T23:15:00.001-05:00

Sito Moresco is but one of many Barbaresco vineyards that provides the grapes for this Piedmont red. While some consider this to be an introductory Gaja wine, it certainly has a powerful, yet graceful nature with gorgeous aromas of vanilla, black and blue fruits, spice, and leather. The flavors follow the aromas; it's all there.

Gaja's single vineyard Barbarescos are phenomenal; my favorite: the 1997 Langhe Sorì San Lorenzo, Sorì means "hill" and San Lorenzo is the patron saint of Alba.

Sito Moresco is Gaja's Piedmont baby, an unusual blend of nebbiolo, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot. Gaja is known for his unusual ways: he opted out of DOCG status in 1996 by blending barbera into his some of his Barbarescos, he made two extraordinary chardonnays and a cabernet sauvignon which he contends was made to bring international attention to nebbiolo, dabbled with Brunello di Montalcino with his 1997 single vineyard Sugarille from his winery--Pieve S. Restituta, and founded Ca'Marcanda in Bolgheri, due south of Sassicaia and Ornellaia, which makes some of the most provocative, yet affordable blends in Bolgheri, I've had the Promis and also the Magari, but have yet to try the proprietary Ca'Marcanda.

When asked to describe Nebbiolo, Gaja responded

Cabernet is to John Wayne, what Nebbiolo is to Marcello Mastroianni. John Wayne is a strong personality. He speaks in a loud voice. Marcello Mastroianni would never be in the center of a room. He is shy. He is a closed book. And women become beautiful beside him. This is the beauty of Nebbiolo.

2006 Viñedo de los Vientos Tannat

2008-11-17T20:08:00.000-05:00

The Tannat grape originated in Madiran, located in southwest France and made its way to Uruguay in 1870.
This particular bottling by Viñedo de los Vientos (Vineyard of the Winds) caught my attention while attending a wine tasting at the Spirited Gourmet a couple weeks ago. They weren't pouring it, but having already developed an interest in the wine (I'm told a good French version is best described as a "monster with manners" and pairs nicely with steak frites), I decided to pick up a bottle. Upon opening, woodsy, subtle black fruit, and bittersweet chocolate aromas become evident. Soft fruit, toasty oak flavors glide across the palate; the tannins are present, but not nearly as harsh as was expected.

2005 Columbia Crest Horse Heaven Hills (H3) & 2007 Mollydooker The Scooter Merlots

2008-11-03T19:01:00.000-05:00

Columbia Crest's H3 Merlot was beautiful upon opening it last night. On the other hand, my mother thought it was a bit closed and required aeration. That being said, as more was poured during dinner the luxurious amounts of fruit that flowed were a pleasant surprise; simply said, tasty and a worthy representation of Washington merlot at its finest. This is definitely a wine that can be enjoyed several days after opening, one that'll pass . Tonight, is Mollydooker's The Scooter. Upon opening, ripe cherries were the dominant aroma with a spicy overtone I find common in Australian reds. After doing The Mollydooker Shake the chunky texture described by Wine Spectator's Harvey Steinman disappeared.

1995 Guenoc Reserve Beckstoffer IV Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

2008-10-03T18:03:00.000-04:00

At age 13, you could smell and taste the loamy currant, well-integrated tannins coat the mouth, all of this leaves me wanting more. This pales in comparison to the other wine of the night (see below).

2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia

2008-10-03T17:11:00.000-04:00

Wine Spectator named this Wine of The Year in 2005 and gives it 96 points and predicts it to be best starting in 2008. Upon opening, aromas of black currant and other black fruit were quite apparent. Tasting the wine revealed a symphony of flavors that were strikingly balanced and followed by an extremely long finish that made me blush. It's been nearly 4 minutes since my last sip and I can still feel the softness of the tannins on the inside of my cheeks. How well this pairs with the porterhouses that have been marinating remains to be seen. This one is for you P.

2004 Marquès de Càceres

2008-09-29T20:39:00.000-04:00

Two days old, but still a nice tempranillo showing aromas of wet earth and spicy red fruit. The aromas remind me of this wine in particular.

2006 Justin Cabernet Sauvignon

2008-09-29T20:32:00.000-04:00

A Paso Robles Cabernet with little, if any, aging potential--two day test yielded mostly oxidation as opposed to fruit and secondary flavors, three day test revealed what little fruit was remaining.

2005 D'Arenberg The Stump Jump

2008-09-22T22:51:00.000-04:00

I think the wine glass had soap residue leading to the initial tingly taste in the mouth. I thought the wine was one of Wine Spectator's Best Values, but it turns out the white was the Best Value. That being said, I still found the wine to pair nicely with Pizzeria Regina Margherita pizza (medium basil, no parmesan, well-done) because it cut through the cheese enough to go with the tomato sauce.

2007 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc Viognier

2008-09-07T13:36:00.001-04:00

Aromatic, with melon and many other aromas that are difficult to distinguish which proceed its lusciously sweet, yet crisp flavors of Chinese pear. Surprising, a nice choice for my first voyage with Pine Ridge's Chenin Blanc-Viognier. The beauty of chenin blanc is that the winemaker's touch can have such a dramatic effect on what it turns into. In this case the viognier adds

2007 Woop Woop Shiraz and an outdated French system

2008-08-24T20:43:00.000-04:00

The first time I heard of Woop Woop was when I saw a bottle of it in my brother's apartment some time in the spring/summer of 2003, mind you, this was also before I had a great interest in wine. I didn't really ask him about it other than why he had saved the bottle. I want to say that his bottle is from the 2003 vintage, but I'm not exactly sure. Even when he moved into his first home, he took the bottle with him, probably due to the immense sentimental value he attributes to the bottle (not that there's anything wrong with sentimental value, after all, one man's trash is another man's gold). Anyway, the other day I picked up a bottle of this Southeastern Australia--more specifically, McLaren Vale--Shiraz. Tonight I drank it with leftovers (ribs, stuffed chicken, and brown rice with craisins and mango) and I'm currently drinking it as I sneak bites of fudge from a recent trip to Rockport, MA. It's not bad, nice legs, decent fruit, and the fudge brings out some interesting flavors I can't quite put a name on right now. However, when I compare it to the similarly priced, similarly rated Barossa Valley Estates E Minor, E Minor wins, hands down (even without considering the sealing method of each bottle). Now if you're looking for a nice McLaren Vale Shiraz that won't break the bank, try Two Hands Angel's Share ($30). If you want to go for gold, try Two Hands Ares ($160) which features fruit from both the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale.

On another note, there's a nice article at Slate examining why French bureaucrats and AOC standards are shooting its own wine industry in the foot.

It is often assumed that the wine industry, like other sectors of the French economy, is micromanaged by bureaucrats in Paris. The INAO does oversee the appellation system, but as wine writer Tyler Colman (a friend of mine) notes in his informative new book, Wine Politics, viticulture is an exception to the norm in France, in that it is mostly administered locally by the winemakers themselves. This arrangement, plainly fraught with conflicts of interest, has had onerous consequences.

In some appellations, the boundaries have been extended to include land not fit for making decent wine. Yield limits are now routinely flouted in many appellations, and a number of them also permit mechanized harvesting, which is a surefire way to produce rotgut. Then there are the taste tests, whose results are about as trustworthy as Zimbabwean presidential elections. In a survey released last year by the French consumer group UFC-Que Choisir, wine industry insiders acknowledged that as many as one-third of all AOC wines were undeserving of the distinction. Local control, combined with reckless growth, has been a disaster, and the wine-buying public has taken note. In the past decade or so, the French share of the global wine market has declined sharply. Fine cabernets and chardonnays are being produced around the world nowadays, and while the most celebrated French wines—the Romanée-Contis and the Latours and Lafites—are more popular and expensive than ever, the market for many lesser ones has all but dried up. Alain Bazot, UFC-Que Choisir's president, summed it up well: "For years, there has been a steady fall in the quality of many AOC wines which has completely undermined the confidence of consumers in the system." This, combined with the continued decline of domestic consumption in France (it has plunged 50 percent over the last four decades), has left thousands of winemakers in danger of losing their livelihoods.

Wine Spectator gets dupped

2008-08-24T11:05:00.000-04:00

The Wine Spectator Award of Excellence symbolizes the supposed strength of a restaurant's wine program. The much coveted Grand Award broadcasts that you're the best of the best. I've been to many restaurants that have an Award of Excellence or better and for the most part, I was impressed by their wine lists. I can't say much about bottle service because I didn't always order a bottle when I went. That being said, a wine critic and academic asks what it takes to win such an award and dupes Wine Spectator into bestowing an Award of Excellence to a restaurant that doesn't even exist. (HT: Wine Economics.)

DISCLOSURE: I subscribe to Wine Spectator and I also enjoy many of the Italian reds that they rave about (see here).

2006 Ruffino Aziano

2008-08-15T23:02:00.000-04:00

A deep dish, Chicago-style pizza with roasted peppers, roasted vegetables, mushrooms, and pepperoni called for an Italian red. Chianti sounded good, or at the very least, something with Sangiovese. I chose a 2006 Ruffino Aziano Chianti Classico ($13) and was delighted. After reading Suckling's review of the 2006 vintage in Chianti Classico I couldn't help but admire my selection for the evening.

2002 Spring Mountain Elivette

2008-07-27T22:20:00.000-04:00

Extremely tannic upon opening, this could've aged for several more years without a problem. After decanting, the tannins softened and finally revealed black fruit and an engagingly long finish. If I can find more of this 93 point wine I'll definitely purchase more, perhaps a case.

Waiter is moving on

2008-07-19T22:27:00.000-04:00

Waiter has turned a new leaf, but promises to continue blogging. Good for him.

2003 Fisher Coach Insignia Cabernet Sauvignon

2008-07-12T22:04:00.000-04:00

Marvelous. Upon opening up it was a bit tight, but with a quick burst of black fruit before the tannins grabbed a hold. After 30 minutes, the fruit became more pronounced and the aromas really came through. Still young and with such a high alcohol content (14.8%) it's capable of aging for an extended period and adopting the markers of aged Napa Cabernet. Perfect with the porterhouse and a medley of snow peas, squash, red, yellow, and orange peppers sauteed in olive oil with garlic, butter, and lemon. Not too bad for my first solo cooking session...who knew?

Recent wines

2008-07-10T17:15:00.000-04:00

It's been awhile since I've last posted about the wines I've been drinking, perhaps its because I've been preoccupied with numerous happenings elsewhere. Here's a quick, incomplete rundown in no particular order:

2005 Two Hands Ares: A stellar Australian Shiraz, quite possibly the best I've ever had, but definitely the highest-rated. Loads of black fruit accompanying a comical story and a great meal at Morton's. Here's the low-down: Per my request, the Assistant GM decanted the wine before our arrival. Upon arriving and making ourselves comfortable at the table, the same Assistant GM brings a decanter of wine over to the table and starts idle conversation in which he asks if I've ever had the Ares before. Let it be noted that I instantly noticed he had not only failed to bring the empty bottle or the cork, also the decanter was not nearly as full as one would expect from a standard 750 ml bottle, but the biggest clue was that the wine inside was not nearly as dark as I had expected. Anyway, long story short, I taste the wine in the decanter and then ask "Is this the Ares? Because it really doesn't take like it." He smiles, states that I'm correct in identifying the intentional mistake (it was actually Inglenook cooking wine, I think a Burgundian), and promptly brings another decanter, this one bearing the wine I so desperately desired. That same night I also tasted a 1997 Grand Cru Echezeaux from Lamarche.

2002 Darioush Shiraz: Another funny story: P and I decide to get a late-night snack from McDonalds, lo-and-behold guess what I do? Breakout this bottle of Shiraz and in all seriousness, say "This'll go great with those Quarter-Pounders without onions, the BBQ sauce for the nuggets, and the overly-crisp fries that sat in the oven a few minutes longer than they should have". Excellent wine, horrible food--never again will such a pairing occur.

2006 Two Hands Bella's Garden: A great Australian Shiraz. The culmination of a weekend of Shiraz.

2004 Justin "Isoceles" Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot: A beautiful red that shows Justin's ability to comeback from a startling setback in 2005.

2004 Concha Y Toro "Don Melchor" Cabernet Sauvignon: Yummy. Were it not for the lack of funds, I would've stocked up on this one. Instead, I'll stock up on the 2005.

2002 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon: Excellent, a prime example of Beringer's ability to create age-worthy Cabs. A steal of a deal found buried in a case of 2004 BPR at the Waltham Costco.

2003 Antinori Solaia: Who would've thought I found this at a 7-11 in Vermont, just outside of Mount Snow? Upon opening and taking that first sip, I updated my Facebook status with something along the lines of having "found heaven on earth". I then received a message from a friend saying that was the best update he'd seen in a long time. Really though, this was stellar wine; its 1997 vintage was Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year. I just wish there was more than one bottle on the shelf.

2001 Antinori Tignanello: Upon cutting the seal, I noticed leakage and instantly became worried about oxidation. Fortunately, abundant, robust fruit flavors flashed shortly after opening and the wine was still very much enjoyable even several days after being opened. I think the bottle lasted for 3-4 days and only on the 4th day did sourness preclude the fruit.

2005 The Crossings Sauvignon Blanc: A beautiful Sauvignon Blanc, one of my proposed wines for a professional project that until recently, I was involved in.

2006 Four Vines "Naked" Chardonnay: Another one of my proposed wines. First tried at the Burlington Nordstroms.

1995 Chateau Simard Saint Emilion: My first mature Bordeaux (I've tasted an Ausone, but tasting is far different than drinking).

2005 Ridge Geyserville Zinfandel: Their 40th vintage Zinfandel. If I recall correctly, the fruit is grown in the Anderson Valley.

2005 Barossa Valley Estate E Minor Shiraz: From the makers of the notoriously tasty E&E Black Pepper, a steal for $11.

2004 Cliff Lede Poetry Cabernet Sauvignon: It seems I've got a distinct ability to sell this wine to guests (last I checked, I was the only one to have sold any, my record being 2). On both occasions, I had the pleasure of tasting this gorgeous wine--frankly its elegance and graceful style make it like--even the fear of sounding cliche will not prevent me from saying this--poetry for the wine lover.

1998 Col Solare: Antinori and Chateau Ste. Michelle's Washington collaboration found at D&L, one of my favorite liquor stores in Waltham.

2005 Joseph Phelps Innisfree Cabernet Sauvignon: Produced from the left over fruit used for Insignia and its Napa Cabernets. Excellent, two bottles gone in the blink of an eye while celebrating a former colleague's birthday, one who happens to be quite the fan of Phelps' Insignia.

Big boys still sitting in the cellar waiting for their day: ~~2002 Spring Mountain Elivette~~, 2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia, 2004 Stags Leap Wine Cellars Cask 23.

Updated: 8/19/08.

2006 Root 1

2008-05-26T00:59:00.000-04:00

A fruit forward Chilean Cabernet from the Colcghagua Valley. One to remember, albeit for its introductory characteristics to the finer aspects of red wine, especially given the fact that its roots are ungrafted and have yet to have been plagued by Phylloxera. Definitely a wine for a blooming novice and one to recommend to those who aren't familiar with the beauty and intricacy of Cabernets.

ADDENDUM: Not nearly as complex as Concha y Toro's Don Melchor (its 2005 vintage received its highest rating yet), but still a great cabernet.

1996 Faustino I Gran Reserva

2008-04-22T11:19:00.000-04:00

My first tempranillo (actually a blend of tempranillo graciano, and mazuelo; rated 87 points). An old world, yet rich and full-bodied red that slowly opened up after a decade+ in the bottle. Even after several days, its red fruit and mineral character showed beautifully; last night, well integrated tannins begged to complement the New York strips which I had paired with the wine a couple days before. Mom liked the bottle it came in.

il Molino di Grace Riserva 2001

2008-04-10T03:08:00.000-04:00

I'm satisfied on a consistent basis by the many wines imported by Ed Peterson of Domaine Select Wine Estates. Even after being open for several days, the wines have been particularly impressive. Especially this Chianti Classico from il Molino di Grace, particularly it's Selezione Il Margone, which maintains a complexity that's hard to beat and flavors that make me want to grill a New York strip at 3:10 a.m. In fact, it's so good that I think I'll act on my whim and broil that Kansas City strip I've got marinating in the fridge right now. On a sidenote, I'm rather stuffed up right now, but I get aromas of strawberries right now, but that's about it for now...we'll see if I have any left after my meal. If not, then oh well.

2005 Bradford Mountain Grist Vineyard Syrah

2008-04-07T20:53:00.000-04:00

Three days old and with just over a half a bottle left. Having been stored in the fridge for the past two days, oxidation slowed considerably. After warming up to cellar temperature (50 degrees) and subsequently just below room temperature, its black fruits (cherries, blackberry) emerged along with a soft, yet prolonged finish; I don't get blueberry or plum, but I certainly agree with 88 points. Paired with Kansas City strip steaks embedded with crushed peppercorns, sourdough baguettes, and boc choy. Here's what James Laube had to say about it:

Ripe, rich and fleshy, with intense blueberry, wild berry and plum notes that are well-centered and complex, ending with firm tannins. Drink now through 2011. 500 cases made.–JL

2004 Altamura Cabernet

2008-04-06T23:12:00.000-04:00

Two days old, but still plenty of life in a half full bottle. Oxidation had begun, but black currant, berries, and bing cherries were still prevalent and the finish was more than enjoyable. Not to mention, it was a wonderful complement to the porterhouse, potatoes, broccoli, and sweet peas. A typical Napa Cabernet, but one that's definitely worthy of a repeat performance (WS: 91 pts). Currently, a Costco special, but as the powers that be, I scored this one for free (see below).

Addendum: Altamura's New England distributors also push Opus One.

1999 Il Palazzone

2008-04-06T02:45:00.000-04:00

I experienced this amazing Brunello di Montalcino (which, unfortunately is not imported for retail sale in the U.S. or so says this), along with numerous other wines (from Opus One, which was like velvet but still overrated, to a 1992 Stags Leap Winery Cabernet (amazingly complex and very well balanced), 1999 Heitz Bella Oaks Cabernet (nice, but not my favorite), 2002 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet (wonderful year and proof of Beringer's ongoing ability to produce top notch Cabernet capable of aging; their chardonnay, not so much), 2005 Etude Deer Camp Pinot Noir (blows their standard Carneros Pinot Noir OUT of the water), 2006 Elderton Command Shiraz (powerful, opulent, fruit forward, and possesses a complexity that shines), Perrier Jouet Fleur De Champagne (mmmmm, tasty), Krug's Grand Cuvee (After tasting this, I no longer wonder how Krug has the ability to sell a bottle of champagne for $$$$), complex and one that I repeatedly had to "taste") last night during an extravagant wine tasting event sponsored by the Boston Seaport Morton's. The event was stellar and the networking opportunities numerous; not to mention the great food and a silent auction, benefiting the Make A Wish Foundation and consisting of a Primat (27 Liters) of 2005 Charles Krug Vintage Selection and a private cocktail reception for 40. I'm currently drinking the remainder of this day-old Brunello which has had the chance to really open up. Aromas of wet earth, subtle red fruit, and flowers. Flavors of ripe, yet subdued strawberries, earth, and cherries, with a long, smooth finish. As I remember from yesterday, I didn't enjoy this Brunello as much as I did tonight. My favorite Brunello so far has been the 2001 Capanna Riserva.

The Macallan Fine Oak vs. The 18

2008-03-28T23:51:00.000-04:00

I had the opportunity to compare The Macallan 17 Fine Oak to The Macallan 18 tonight. I find the 17 to be slightly darker than the 10 year Fine Oak, with a much more pronounced flavor as compared to the 10 year Fine Oak; however, in retrospect, I find my flavor profile much more accommodating toward Macallan when it's strictly aged in sherry casks as opposed to a blend of bourbon and sherry cask aged scotch. The Macallan 18 has more color and a much more complex flavor profile; granted it's of NO comparison to the 25, but it still has a smooth, soothing finish that's hard to beat. I can't, nor will I, ever choose to compare it to more normal everyday scotch (Walker Black), but given the evening which I've had the chance to really put the two side-by-side, I'd go with the 18, bar none.

On another note, I met the son of the owner of Toscano, Andrew, this afternoon and we had a nice discussion about Nebbiolo and the beauty of Italian wines. I'll have to splurge for the Casanova di Neri next time I'm in.

P.S. As Jon said this evening; NEVER SETTLE. Find The Best and GO FOR IT.

Mayacamas Vineyards 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon

2008-03-21T21:29:00.000-04:00

Upon opening, aromas of spicy black currant, blackberries, bittersweet chocolate, and anise. The first taste showed strong, unbalanced tannins that overpowered the aromas; I almost thought it was oxidized by the finish. The wine needs a few more years in the bottle to come to terms with itself. After decanting, its complexity opened up majestically and its robust fruit-forward nature and elegant, persistent finish became apparent.

Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

2008-02-21T20:19:00.000-05:00

Vanilla and black fruit aromas develop upon opening the bottle and pouring the first glass. By itself, there's something wrong with the finish, it dies with an odd bitter note, one that I've never experienced. Perhaps this has to do with what Wine Spectator complained about with bottle variation in this particular vintage.

SECOND DAY: Vanilla and black fruit aromas are still present; with a little air, its had a chance to mellow, but the fruit still pops and the tannins have grip, but for the most part, the funky finish follows. I wonder how this wine would've tasted a couple years ago, perhaps it's beyond its peak.

Brunello di Montalcino Capanna Riserva 2001

2008-02-13T21:24:00.001-05:00

Wow. As the first Brunello I've reviewed on this blog, I've got to say, it's established a high standard. Beautiful aromas with an apparent spice (hard to separate), full-bodied, well balanced (with the idea that it'll age nicely), long, partially dry aftertaste with a quagmire of flavors and a mouth-coating texture, and perfect for the broiled New York strip and broccoli (sauteed with garlic and oyster sauce) I had this evening. This is one for the books (WS rated 95 points), although I don't get the citrus fruit in the aromas, and the plum is not necessarily apparent until I read the WS review and compared my notes. Winemaker notes:

Obtained from a careful hand selection of small Brunello (Sangiovese) grapes from the older vines. Aged in Slavonian oak barrels (10-20 HL) for about 4 years, then in bottle for an additional year. Deep-ruby color, fullbodied, with a long and rich aftertaste, intense and persistent perfume; big and robust wine. Best served at 64-68 °F with grilled and roasted red meats, game, and strong cheeses.

2004 Bell Syrah Cantebury Vineyard

2008-02-09T02:25:00.000-05:00

Fragrant. Upon first pour, a vanilla aroma became evident. However, after a couple minutes the vanilla aromas disappeared and aromas of subdued spice followed by red fruit (cherries and raspberries) and blackberries emerged. Pleasant on the palate with luscious fruit that's well balanced and proceeds into a long, fruit-forward finish. Noticeable legs, soft tannins with a different sort of richness (at least from what I was expecting from a syrah).

American Wine Company (AWC) rates it 91. Winemaker tasting notes:

Our 2004 Syrah exhibits wonderful varietal character. Deep ruby in color with spicy, peppery fruit aromas, the wine has good acidity, with a rich, luscious mouthfeel and soft, elegant tannins. The oak flavors are in balance with the fruit acidity and fruit flavor to yield an appealing wine, bright on the palate, with great depth and concentration. Often described by our guests as “yummy,” this delicious wine is a nice alternative for those seeking a rich, round, wellbalanced yet softer style wine. A great companion to food, this wine will continue to mature gracefully for many years. Richly flavored and with great concentration, this wine illustrates the great potential of the Canterbury Vineyard.

2005 Incognito

2008-02-05T20:14:00.000-05:00

Not being exactly sure of what I was getting into when I purchased this wine, I was drawn to the name of the winemakers; David and Michael Phillips. I recall seeing the Phillips name as one to watch out for in a recent edition of Wine Spectator, so when I saw it in my local store, I decided to give it a whirl. Unfortunately, I had already prepared a New York strip steak to go along with my wine selection before I actually opened the bottle and poured a taste. After doing so, I was glad to have had some brie and crackers on hand to pair with the wine. The wine didn't match up to well with my seared peppercorn strip, but overall, it was a well-blended wine of primarily Rhone varietals, particularly Syrah, Mourvedre, Petite Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan, Petit Verdot, Grenache, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. Originally this wine was thought to be a Roussanne, until DNA testing proved it to be a rare clone of Viognier. Winemaker's notes:

Flambéed pear and honeysuckle aromas open up into flavors of passion fruit, green apple and a lingering dried apricot finish.

This wine was awarded "Best Rhone in the World" as a Roussanne at the 2000 Los Angeles International Wine Competition. However, using DNA testing, U.C. Davis later determined that this unique grape is a rare clone of Viognier that mysteriously appeared in California during the past decade and is not, in fact, a Roussanne after all.

The phantom clone originated somewhere in the Chateauneuf du Pape region of the Rhone Valley in France, then mistakenly sold to the grower - the talented Mr. Ripkin - as Roussanne, who, finally, sold the resulting grapes to Michael~David Vineyards. The rest is history!

Incognito's grapes are grown in the Ripken Vineyard, east of the Carquinez Straits in the Sacramento River Delta region of California. Warm days and cool evenings - reminiscent of the clone's native Rhone Valley - produce the powerful and intense fruit with a sultry body that characterizes this wine, making it unlike any other Viognier.

Amazingly smooth; will purchase again and pair accordingly.

2003 Nickel and Nickel Branding Iron Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

2008-01-23T23:34:00.001-05:00

Wow. Upon opening the bottle, pouring the first taste, and taking in its aromas; I was impressed. Jammy fruit blasts the nose and you taste what you smell. Smooth, polished finish. Tannins are present, but far from noticeable. If I were to taste this blind, I'd label it as a merlot. Sediment; needs filter, but not necessarily aeration. In fact, I'd go against aeration because it's gold right out of the bottle. Winemaker notes & back of the bottle:

The flavors get better and better as this vineyard matures. This 2003 Branding Iron flaunts a mixture of wild berry and cranberry fruit. The middle palate is fat and coating as it tastes sweet and polished even though the wine is dry. A warm, spicy toast coming from the barrels complements the fruit, while the soft tannins finish with harmony and grace.
Oakville's Branding Iron vineyard was named for a branding iron shaped like two opposing wineglasses, that has been in the properietor's family for generations. Round and polished, this is an approachable Cabernet Sauvignon with notes of cherry, spice and toasty oak, accented by soft tannins and a harmonious finish.

IHSV.

2002 Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cépages

2008-01-17T21:29:00.000-05:00

An amazing claret (meritage). Labeled as a Cabernet Sauvignon; however, it's a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot; each of which is aged independently in oak before being blended and bottled. The nose assaults you with concentrated fruit (predominantly black with a touch of red, particulary crushed cherry(?)**). Well balanced, tannins are noticeable, but fade quickly, ending in a smooth finish (not enough to cut through the abundant marbling in a prime ribeye steak, but much more suitable toward a filet). The question I have is how does the 2003 compare to the 2002 (especially since the 2003 received a higher rating than the 2002)?

From the winemaker:

Engaging and seductive, the 2002 vintage delivers the signature aromas we look for on Cinq Cépages – chocolate covered cherries and hints of mocha. Deep, dense and beautifully balanced, a medium – bodied entry fills the mouth with black plums, hibiscus notes and an exotic floral note that wrap around big, juicy tannins. Highly extracted and perfectly balanced, this wine delivers cedar and sweet roasted oak notes throughout a lingering finish.

IHSV

Stag's Leap Wine Cellars sold for $185 million

2007-08-15T01:41:00.000-04:00

The esteemed winery that put Napa Valley on the map is no longer family-owned. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars has been sold to a joint venture of Italy's Marchese Piero Antinori and Ste. Michelle Wine Estates for $185 million (HT: Jacob Grier). Wine aficionados inherently ask "Is this a bad thing?" Me being one of those (I'm an aspiring one, whose always open for suggestions-post them in the comments.) and also a die-hard capitalist, leads me to say NO. Prime land in Napa Valley is selling for over $275,000 PER acre! And there are so many wineries that are small-batch producers of outstanding quality**. The competition is getting fierce and advances in chemistry and biological sciences will lead to further innovations and improvements (think genetic engineering, gene splicing, and who knows what else, even global warming, higher temperatures increase sucrose content in grapes) and increased competitiveness. Corporations and multinationals are storming Napa, trying to snatch all of the prime spots before their competition beats them to the punch. Is that a bad thing? NO! Who cares who the owner of the vineyard is?? Aficionados care about the WINE. New owners, with deeper pockets, are a good thing for the wine industry. These deeper pockets can fund larger projects, produce more wine without sacrificing quality (to an extent, theoretically), ship wine further and faster (assuming they're willing to ignore some ridiculous laws in certain states, i.e. Utah#), and quench the thirst of aficionados throughout the USA and the rest of the world. Fortunately for aficionados, Stag's Leap Cellars' new owners made a sound decision to keep winemaker Nicolette Pruss on staff and the man himself, Warren Winiarski (a former Chicago academic who studied under Strauss), as an advisor.

**Paradigm Winery is one of my favorites, specifically their Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfindel. They produce 6000 cases annually and have 55 acres of prime land in Oakville. It's Cab sells for approximately $120 in the restaurant I used to work at. (Sidenote: I also enjoy Joseph Phelps, its Insignia is particularly special and widely acclaimed; and, also sold by the bottle at Hamiltons for $300+, you won't find it really anywhere else in Utah.)

#This is my DISCLAIMER. I do not condone the violation of ANY liquor laws, regardless of whether I consider them ridiculous or not. Fortunately, I am currently residing on the East Coast in a state that allows wine shipments. I'll be expecting my case any time now, just in time for those fall colors and winter flurries. Cabs and Zins are terrible for hot, humid weather.